Just as an added precaution to try to save the fenders from being crunched when hitting a ditch while already under full compression (Qualcomm Stadium courses in San Diego). I'll probably be fine since my front spring rate is as stiff as anyone else's here in STR, and I'm not running as low as some others.

My bump stop won't engage until at or just after the tire's making solid contact with my fender liner. This is with the metal tabs already bent up and the tire going fully into the wheel well. With the packer, the bump stop should touch a few millimeters before the fender liner. This may not make a difference with a big enough bump, but I'd rather have it there.

 

why do you say packers are a no-no? What possumk is saying makes sense, using packers to make your bumpstops engage at or slightly before you hit the fender. That'll both help save your fenders and ease the impact which can only help handling. Unless there's something I'm missing?

I understand if you mean using packers instead of doing the easy precautions like bending the tabs up and tucking the fenderliner is bad, or using packers to move the bumpstops substantially before you hit the fender.

 

Since that measurement is variable based upon tire selection and tire wear, what is that measurement from hub center to fender top? It should be in the 12-14" range.

I rubbed with 13.4", 750/550, stock front bar, no rear bar. I've since rolled the fender tabs at the 11 o'clock and 2 o'clock positions (front passenger side) and replaced the fender liner clips with zip ties. I'm now lower and and way stiffer.

This is the extent of my rubbing: http://random1photo.zenfolio.com/p36359613...a3c9f#h26aa3c9f and it is rare.

 

120 pages. Lol.

So is there any consensus in all this knowledge about what spring rates to run? Or at least an idea of front / rear ratio. I'll be using re- valved konis (old A stock car) for a budget build. I do have a Comptech FSB.

 

So bad new for me. (maybe) I called evasive a month ago and they said they could get me some buddy club qf wheels. So i sold my wheels a week ago and now I just called to try to order some and the guy I spoke to laughed and said "them wheels are long gone" WTF! does this guy not know what hes talking about or am I screwed? Whats the next lightest wheel to the buddy clubs and where in the world can I find some buddy clubs?

You would think if they couldn't get a wheel it wouldn't be listed on the site!

/rant

 

I think it's still in the air. I've seen 1000f/1000r,950f/800r,850f/700r, 800f/700r, 750f/600r, 750f/500r.

I'm going 850f/700r springs, Small Fortune Racing solid front bar with ball bearing mounts and miata 2006 base front bar for the rear bar.

front
2.6-8 camber
0 toe
24.5" height

rear

2.6-8 camber
0 toe
24.5" height (if the car oversteers I will roll fenders and drop the rear .25")


then tune the car with shock settings.
Although I'm a noob and know nothing.

 

Ouch, that sucks. Doing some searches on the internet it does seem they are discontinued. If I were you I'd make a bunch of phone calls to every buddy club vendor that looks like they still sell them - particularly a smaller vendor might still have a set laying around. When I was looking around there were dozens of places that sell them so it's not like evasive is the only place. One trick I've used with stuff like this is to seach google with something like: buddy club qf "in stock" . Or variants of that. It looks like you'll get a couple that way. That gets the places that list if it's in stock. Of course a bunch of places just write that on there even if they don't have it, but it at least gives you a good list of likely places to have it to start with. Then if that doesn't work try searching for it normally and make some calls that way. Good luck.

 

Here's another setup point that feels decent to me:

Front:
900 lb/in
-3.1* camber
J's S2 camber joints
max caster
Modified Saner FSB on 4th adjustment hole
zero toe
12-7/8" wheel center-to-fender distance

Rear:
800 lb/in
-3.5* camber
3/16" total toe in
'00 rear sway bar
12-3/4" wheel center-to-fender distance

This was on a set of R-S3s. It has a little low-speed push but is quite stable in faster turns.

EDIT: with 3+ degrees of negative camber, I haven't had to touch my fender lips, front or rear. I might be pushing it, but the grip is definitely there.

 

[QUOTE=nmrado,Dec 8 2010, 05:10 PM] Here's another setup point that feels decent to me:

Front:
900 lb/in
-3.1* camber
J's S2 camber joints
max caster
Modified Saner FSB on 4th adjustment hole
zero toe
12-7/8" wheel center-to-fender distance

Rear:
800 lb/in
-3.5* camber
3/16" total toe in
'00 rear sway bar
12-3/4" wheel center-to-fender distance

This was on a set of R-S3s.

 

I'm surprised to see that much front roll resistance.