So to use the resources here on this forum I have some pointed questions about Emanage on an AP1

1. Who has the best price new?
2. What Greddy items do I need to purchase?
3. What is the best plug and play harness?
4. Any tricks for install and set-up or is it pretty straight forward.

I am working my way through reading the entire thread but thought I might get some quick answers.

 

Have you verified this? Win7 64-bit is the only OS I haven't had luck with...

 

Jake, yes, this is how I use mine, on Win 7 64 bit Professional. It is tricky though, need a good solid USB 2.0 printer cable (cheap multi adapter ended one didn't work for me), only works on USB 2.0 ports not 3.0 ports on mine. It also won't connect unless you get the drivers in the right compatibility mode, ie I think it won't connect if you're in normal Win 7 mode but try to open the EMU software itself as runnning in XP Mode, you have to start a separate new VM instance of the XP Mode shell first, then install/run the software from within that. Once there, and connected, may need to enable integration features from the XPMode Tools menu at the top, and also you should see the EMU under the USB menu. If after trying the above, you still can't get it, let me know and I'll try to do it again to remember any steps I missed or try to walk you through it.

 

1. Google or try a sponsor here, or try Karcepts who may be able to get them.
2. Should just need the EMU and a harness. A wideband if you want to do your own tuning/monitoring.
3. I'm not sure any completely correct harness is made out of the box yet. I'd modify to the methods Brian at Karcepts posted earlier in the thread regarding map tap vs map intercept.
4. I'd follow the instructions/base map Karcepts posted in terms of wiring, rest should be plug and play. Also, there's a trick to rotate the stock ECU 90 degrees to get the harness wires to fit behind the cover.

 

Cool, thanks for the overview. I don't think I installed the software/driver in the XP shell.

 

I was curious as to how my results stack up with other STR built cars, and just how much more potential I have left. For me, lowering VTEC engagement to 3400 yielded the most torque gain, and surprisingly enough, simply removing the air filter gained 5 whp. I'm happy with how fairly flat my torque curve ended up.

2005, FIPK, Berk header, Berk 63.5mm high flow cat, Invidia catback, AFC Neo

216/153

 

3400 for vtec is good if you can compensate for fuel. From the list of your mods I can not see how you are adding fuel in the 3400-6000 range.

Do you have a printout of your AFRs?

Also a test pipe will always be a lot better than any HFC.

Nice numbers though. I don't think anyone can argue with 216.

 

Thanks. I don't have a printout of the AFR's, but they were in the mid to high 13's, with one point up in the low 14's. We added to the fuel percentage values on the NEO and it did bring it back down, but it lost a little power (2whp IIRC). It may have been from the heat in the bay. I have to keep a cat with STR rules, otherwise I would have jumped on a test pipe.

 

I'm guessing that you are located somewhere with high elevation, that is why you where able to add fuel with the NEO. If you were at sea level, the stock ECU will have gone crazy on you, as it can not see (or at least is not programmed to operate) at any pressure over 1 bar(sea level).

By adding fuel with the NEO you are retarding ignition timing, which is the opposite of what you want to do with the lowered vtec.

Are you allowed a Fuel Pressure regulator in STR? if yes, I would add as much fuel/pressure as possible (as much as the fuel pump an the injectors can take) with the regulator and then use the NEO to subtract some and bring AFR to mid 13s and at the same time gaining a few degrees of ignition timing which will up the power especially midrange. I've heard of people running at almost 100psi fuel press with stock hardware. Not that I'm recommending to go that high.

Another trick which will probably work is to pull out some fuel in the lower revs/throttle (closed loop) with the NEO to force the ECU to compensate,by adding fuel, with the Long Term Fuel Trims which will also add fuel in the high revs/throttle (closed loop). This way under load you will not be using NEO to add fuel, which pulls ign timing and thus hurt power, but only to reduce fuel where needed. Only issue I see with this is that if you remove battery or reset ECU, it will need some time cruising in low speed to bring your AFRs up.

I hope I have not confused you.

 

An update for anyone that may struggle with this in the future. It seems that putting 12V on pin 25 and grounding 24 isn't enough to turn the unit on. I don't know why, maybe my 12V power source was too weak or something. Regardless, I threw it in the car and all worked well. I'm using an old laptop with Windows Vista on it. Version 2.30 installed with no issues and connected as soon as I turned the key.

I figured I'd throw this in my setup before even starting to tune. I get an odd rev limiter while rolling at any speed with the following settings:



And yet it'll rev to 9k when stopped. What? Isn't that backwards to how it should work? I've played with different values in the other fields, the top one is what sets the rolling rev limit. Setting the values like this allow the car to rev to 9k while rolling again:



Does anyone see what I'm doing wrong?