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View Poll Results: What front sway bar do you use?
Gendron 1.25" hollow
16.57%
Gendron 1.375" hollow
8.84%
Ankeny single blade
0.55%
Ankeny dual blade
7.73%
Comptech Adjustable V2
7.18%
Saner
19.34%
Other
13.26%
Eibach
20.44%
Standard Gendron
6.08%
Voters: 181. You may not vote on this poll

STR Prep - Sway Bars

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Old Apr 8, 2012 | 09:23 AM
  #361  
User 121020's Avatar
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Originally Posted by RobertHorvath
Speedway Engineering's 48-spline 30-degree steel arms?
Correct.
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Old Apr 9, 2012 | 02:38 AM
  #362  
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Originally Posted by SoloVR6
With the shorter arms, I was just trying to save a little weight. The three holes correspond to the 3 stiffest settings on the first generation original swaybar back in 2001/2002. I'm not sure if SFR has drilled any stiffer holes. IMHO any stiffer holes would create some nasty angles on the endlinks. I don't think it's necessary given the ability to change components. i.e., 1.25" hollow, 1.25" solid or the 1.25" stepped "Monster".
Peter, I emailed you, but would love some input from anyone else on this as well. So the bar arms I have, have one slightly larger hole, spaced a bit further than the others, past where 6/6 would be on the Gendron. My bar was set on this hole, just wondering what you guys think this would do to handling/sway bar rate:

Gendron:
https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/1...CPqS5M3WrJbaeQ

SoloVR6:
https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/1...CPqS5M3WrJbaeQ

Installed, car on ground, set to equivalent of "7th hole" on Gendron:
https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/1...CPqS5M3WrJbaeQ

Would this cause any issues in handling, like the bar not working correctly or reducing its rate, due to too much endlink angle? I felt a bunch of roll/delay on initial turn in, more than I would expect with this much front bar past the 6/6 on 1.25 hollow and 900 lb f springs, and an otherwise loose setup (800lb r, mx5 rear, 1/8" r toe in). Is this because of the 'overly' stiff setting/endlink angle? Or normal laggy turn in feel for the bushing mounts?
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Old Apr 9, 2012 | 08:03 AM
  #363  
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From: Sparta NJ
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Originally Posted by rrthorne8
Seems reasonable i suppose. maybe i can make a low cost alternative for all of us that matches or gets close to oem weight.
does anybody have the weight of bills BB assembly and part number of the bearing?
The weight of the Gendron ball bearing mounts are as follows:

Custom Bracket 1 lb 5.3 oz

Bearing (Timken GRA103RRB2) 7.1 oz

2 Bearing Flanges (62MST) 6.0 oz

Bearing Mount Hardware
(2 bolts, 2 nuts, 4 washers) 2.4 oz

Metal Collar 4.3 oz
---------------------------------------------------------------
The whole shibami (per side) 2 lbs 9.1 oz

Total 5 lbs 2.2 oz
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Old Apr 9, 2012 | 08:29 PM
  #364  
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Originally Posted by Aristoi
Originally Posted by rrthorne8' timestamp='1328683858' post='21394475
Seems reasonable i suppose. maybe i can make a low cost alternative for all of us that matches or gets close to oem weight.
does anybody have the weight of bills BB assembly and part number of the bearing?
The weight of the Gendron ball bearing mounts are as follows:

Custom Bracket 1 lb 5.3 oz

Bearing (Timken GRA103RRB2) 7.1 oz

2 Bearing Flanges (62MST) 6.0 oz

Bearing Mount Hardware
(2 bolts, 2 nuts, 4 washers) 2.4 oz

Metal Collar 4.3 oz
---------------------------------------------------------------
The whole shibami (per side) 2 lbs 9.1 oz

Total 5 lbs 2.2 oz
Thanks for being thorough, This Sunday i will try to get a few of my mounts made up and weighed
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Old Apr 9, 2012 | 09:58 PM
  #365  
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Hey nmrado, is that hole next to the recessed bolt hole going to be threaded? I know that the spacing on those mounted bearings is way wider than the chassis captured nuts and that seems like a good way to mount the bearing.
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Old Apr 9, 2012 | 10:46 PM
  #366  
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Originally Posted by mLeach
Hey nmrado, is that hole next to the recessed bolt hole going to be threaded? I know that the spacing on those mounted bearings is way wider than the chassis captured nuts and that seems like a good way to mount the bearing.
Yep, that's how it's configured. The image shows the hole drilled accordingly for the tap.

Also, I finally got around to weighing my Saner FSB: 20.3 lb without endlinks.
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Old Apr 13, 2012 | 07:44 PM
  #367  
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I put his beauty on my S2 last night. Gendron 0.120 wall bar. Let the adjustment games begin!



Will test it out this weekend! tight fit but it works great! I could push the stock exhaust into the hex head bolt. Wont be a problem with an aftermarket single when I get it.



I mocked up some kevlar wrap just in case it rattles. Zipties are of course just temporary. Going to get some metal ties tomorrow.
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Old Apr 23, 2012 | 10:47 PM
  #368  
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I've been working with Guy Ankeny in helping him test his newly designed Bladed Rear Swaybar. No Specs are available yet as it is still in the testing phase. I am happy to announce that they will be cheaper than a Gendron Rear Bar when all said and done. I will continue to update as soon as everything is set and official specs can be posted. The aim is to have the same stiffness as an MY00 rear bar at full stiff and softer than say a miata bar at full soft. For further questions you can contact Guy Ankeny directly at AnkenyRacingEnterprises
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Old May 6, 2012 | 07:55 PM
  #369  
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Originally Posted by sirbunz
Originally Posted by nmrado' timestamp='1332945753' post='21551867
Yep, I figured most Gendron bar users would be experiencing some amount of rubbing. Unfortunately, using the upper mounting location like Nick did, means the clearance doesn't increase as much compared to the lower mounting position. In your second picture, imagine having the bar mounted much closer the visible bolt that fastens the sway bar mounting bracket to the chassis. The height difference between my approach and the BB Gendron mounts is between 2" and 2.25". Thanks for the pics.
I have the SPCs, 1.375 bar, BB Mounts, and Ohlins TTX shocks. Just notice rubbing on the back of the shock yesterday. I talked with a few people about options and listed them below. Note, the links are not tightened down, I just put it together to get pictures. Suspension is at full droop and the car on jackstands without wheels/tires. They are slightly closer when everything is torqued to spec and when car is on the ground, suspension compressed, etc. My options are...

-Relocate the end link which will require hardware
-Remove the washers, bringing the bolt closer to the arm/linkage
-Bend the arm
-Milling down the outside of the arm
-Additional Options?







-Marc
Update

Just installed the milled arms and new end links. I don't think these end links saved any room compared to the old links. There is more space, enough to get my finger between them. Since the prior contact with the shock was minimal, I expect this to work. Here were the changes:

-Milled outside of both arms approx 50% thickness and powder coated.
-Updates end links with bolts built in.

Name:  IMG_4069.jpg
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-Marc
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Old May 7, 2012 | 06:25 AM
  #370  
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