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View Poll Results: What front sway bar do you use?
Gendron 1.25" hollow
16.57%
Gendron 1.375" hollow
8.84%
Ankeny single blade
0.55%
Ankeny dual blade
7.73%
Comptech Adjustable V2
7.18%
Saner
19.34%
Other
13.26%
Eibach
20.44%
Standard Gendron
6.08%
Voters: 181. You may not vote on this poll

STR Prep - Sway Bars

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Old Jun 29, 2012 | 06:06 AM
  #381  
IntegraR0064's Avatar
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From: Near Philadelphia
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There will be some variation based on how you test it. I am a little wary of what Guy is saying, he told me that when he tested the Gendron bar on his rig (I didn't ask which center section) he got 700 lb/in at max setting. Gendron also said he measured it, and his measurements are within the error I'd expect to the calculated values, more like 900 lb/in. 700 is way lower than the calculated value even if it's the softest Gendron, which tells me either Ankeny measured it wrong or his jig is off and reads very low, I'm assuming the latter, in which case the real rate of his bar at full stiff is probably more like 1100-1200 lb/in.

I don't think anyone quotes "after motion ratio" rates, usually they do the "at link" rate, although Gendron did start doing quoting the wheel rate after motion ratio for his rear bar.
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Old Jun 29, 2012 | 10:55 AM
  #382  
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It really doesn't matter all too much on paper. I can make my car into an understeering pig with the front blades at full stiff. At that point does it matter to go any stiffer based on "the gendron is stiffer on paper"? I like my bars because of how easy it is to adjust. Racing on three different surfaces here in socal really required me to have the adjustment on the fly. You can't go wrong with either swaybar. Both do wonderful work at providing us the stiffness we need for autox.
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Old Jun 29, 2012 | 11:04 AM
  #383  
Random1's Avatar
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I would agree and Guys measurements make sense on a relative scale. I think would be nice to have an independent check of the rates to clarify the magnitude so we have data we believe. Maybe Guy just needs to calibrate his scale if he has not done so already. I spoke with him two weeks ago and what he told me makes sense on a relative basis. Need that calibration to believe/gain confidence in the accuracy.
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Old Jul 2, 2012 | 01:27 PM
  #384  
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So, trying to figure out which Miata sway bar to order:

NE51-34-151 $66.90 W/O RETRACTABLE HARD TOP - 080828
NE51-34-151A $66.90 W/O RETRACTABLE HARD TOP 080828 -
NG20-34-151 $78.11 W/RETRACTABLE HARD TOP - 080828
NG20-34-151A $65.70 W/RETRACTABLE HARD TOP 080828 -


What is the softest one?
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Old Jan 5, 2013 | 07:23 PM
  #385  
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From: littleton, CO
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ne51-34-151 is softest.
i like a little more rear bar. so i have ng20-34-151
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Old Jan 6, 2013 | 02:01 PM
  #386  
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What is different with the "A" modifier, other than $13?
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Old Jan 6, 2013 | 03:31 PM
  #387  
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From: Tucson
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I would have to guess that "A" is a heavier bar, but that is just a guess.

Here is what I ordered and use on the back end. For my setup it creates a nice balance.



Rear Sway Bar Photos
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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 07:00 PM
  #388  
IntegraR0064's Avatar
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From: Near Philadelphia
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The ohlins thread was turning into a sway bar thread, so I'm going to continue that discussion here:
Originally Posted by markhs2
Originally Posted by IntegraR0064' timestamp='1357775090' post='22256822
He doesn't currently. If you asked him maybe he would. I told him it doesn't fit and he didn't offer up anything other than the suggestion that rewelding them might be an option but he doesn't know. I didn't push it, maybe if I had he'd help out more.

I expect my solution of reangling the arms will work, in which case maybe you could see if he'll do it that way from the start. Either that or I'll start my own sway bar company.
Have you or anyone else out there used both the Ankeny and the Gendron front and or rear bars?

Obviously you like the Ankeny.
I would like to know your opinion and anyone else's of what the differences are and why you like one better then the other, other than the obvious advantage of being able to change settings faster.

I have read that Bill (Grendron maker) state that the blade arms are lass desirable because the rate increase is not linear as they deflect. An yet bladed arms are what practically all pro and purpose built race cars use.

Also how much better have you found it to be?
I have used both. I have a Gendron 1.25" hollow with ball bearing mounts sitting in my garage. As you can tell from how crazy I'm going trying to get the Ankeny to work with the ohlins...I prefer the Ankeny.

Both have pros and cons, I don't have much time but I'll do a quick cliffs notes:

Ankeny Pros:
-Super quick to adjust. Can do it in seconds with the car on the ground, i.e. in between runs. Preload is unaffected by adjustments.
-Somewhat easier to install/uninstall than gendron. Doesn't interfere with the splash shield as much and the bolts for the bushing mounts aren't as obstructed as the gendron bearing mounts.

Ankeny Cons:
-Blade can spin sometimes while driving and change sway bar settings, but this doesn't happen often and probably with practice may not happen at all.
-Low Shock clearance. May not be compatible at all with larger bodied shocks, although I'm working on that.
-Behavior is nonlinear so it does not exert constant force throughout the suspension movement - this can feel weird to some people although I think with the low movement it's not a big deal
-It's hard to repeat exact settings since it's infinitely adjustable and hard to see, although I'm going to try using paint marks, which may help.
-If you don't change blade setting for a while it gets pretty stuck, but with a crescent wrench you can get it loose.
-A little heavier than the gendron
-Have to grease the bushings (like most sway bars)

Gendron Pros:
-Ridiculously quick response due to the bearings...no slop at all.
-Very linear response
-Can change center section
-Very light in the case of the hollow bars
-Maintenence free - no greasing bushings

Gendron cons:
-Very slow to adjust. Like, to get to some settings it takes me hours with the car jacked up and everything. Even if I want to change a sway bar setting between days sometimes I don't do it.

All that said, I prefer the Ankeny. Quick adjustments trumps all that, to me. But I could definitely see to some people that not being the case.
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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 07:14 PM
  #389  
markhs2's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: San Deigo
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Originally Posted by IntegraR0064
The ohlins thread was turning into a sway bar thread, so I'm going to continue that discussion here:
Originally Posted by markhs2' timestamp='1357777379' post='22256888
[quote name='IntegraR0064' timestamp='1357775090' post='22256822']
He doesn't currently. If you asked him maybe he would. I told him it doesn't fit and he didn't offer up anything other than the suggestion that rewelding them might be an option but he doesn't know. I didn't push it, maybe if I had he'd help out more.

I expect my solution of reangling the arms will work, in which case maybe you could see if he'll do it that way from the start. Either that or I'll start my own sway bar company.
Have you or anyone else out there used both the Ankeny and the Gendron front and or rear bars?

Obviously you like the Ankeny.
I would like to know your opinion and anyone else's of what the differences are and why you like one better then the other, other than the obvious advantage of being able to change settings faster.

I have read that Bill (Grendron maker) state that the blade arms are lass desirable because the rate increase is not linear as they deflect. An yet bladed arms are what practically all pro and purpose built race cars use.

Also how much better have you found it to be?
I have used both. I have a Gendron 1.25" hollow with ball bearing mounts sitting in my garage. As you can tell from how crazy I'm going trying to get the Ankeny to work with the ohlins...I prefer the Ankeny.

Both have pros and cons, I don't have much time but I'll do a quick cliffs notes:

Ankeny Pros:
-Super quick to adjust. Can do it in seconds with the car on the ground, i.e. in between runs. Preload is unaffected by adjustments.
-Somewhat easier to install/uninstall than gendron. Doesn't interfere with the splash shield as much and the bolts for the bushing mounts aren't as obstructed as the gendron bearing mounts.

Ankeny Cons:
-Blade can spin sometimes while driving and change sway bar settings, but this doesn't happen often and probably with practice may not happen at all.
-Low Shock clearance. May not be compatible at all with larger bodied shocks, although I'm working on that.
-Behavior is nonlinear so it does not exert constant force throughout the suspension movement - this can feel weird to some people although I think with the low movement it's not a big deal
-It's hard to repeat exact settings since it's infinitely adjustable and hard to see, although I'm going to try using paint marks, which may help.
-If you don't change blade setting for a while it gets pretty stuck, but with a crescent wrench you can get it loose.
-A little heavier than the gendron
-Have to grease the bushings (like most sway bars)

Gendron Pros:
-Ridiculously quick response due to the bearings...no slop at all.
-Very linear response
-Can change center section
-Very light in the case of the hollow bars
-Maintenence free - no greasing bushings

Gendron cons:
-Very slow to adjust. Like, to get to some settings it takes me hours with the car jacked up and everything. Even if I want to change a sway bar setting between days sometimes I don't do it.

All that said, I prefer the Ankeny. Quick adjustments trumps all that, to me. But I could definitely see to some people that not being the case.
[/quote]

Thanks for the helpful info, appreciate it.
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Old Jan 12, 2013 | 05:56 PM
  #390  
skibbz's Avatar
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Just wanted to thank everyone for posting in this thread, I finally pulled the trigger on a 1 3/8" dual-blade bar and this thread was very helpful in making the decision.
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