wow! That's a serious write-up! Good to know the rear bar rate is 311 finally.

The stock bar information I posted above is actually copied from another thread. I threw it in quotes just so it's a little more obvious it's not information dirived by myself.

edit: Just ordered a used NC front bar from Flying Miata. just over $80 shipped.
http://www.flyinmiata.com/salvage/index

I got the only one they had in stock.

 

Does it come with cbrackets?

 

If you purchase from a dealer the brackets and bushings are sold separately.

 

Reason I asked is my car is pretty oversteery. I heard some people run with no bar. Figured I'd try a smaller rear bar (miata). Needed to know what stock was so i can try and figure out what % softer I would be looking at.

If you mod and dont keep track of the numbers, you're shooting blind.

 

FWIW I reused my stock brackets and didnt have to mod the holes.

 

When we 1st tried this out, we knew it was clooooose. So, we spent a couple of minutes to give it a little breathing room.

Keep us in the know if it the clearance stays good over time.

-Dave

 

I'm trying to decide between the Gendron 1.25" solid and 1.25" / 0.25" hollow bar. I'm running 850/700 (correction here, not 750) spring rates on Moton Club Sports. Bill Gendron told me the solid would work fine and said for the spring rates that I'm running that even the 1.25" / 0.25" hollow bar would be fine. I'm still tending towards the solid bar in case I ever need to bump it up to the 900'ish lbs rate but he was mentioning that the 1.375" hollow bar was really made for the guys in AP1/AP2s in BS that REALLY needed all the front bar they can get to compensate for the low front stock spring rates. The poll on the first page seems to be confirming the choice on the 1.25" hollow bar over the 1.25" solid bar unless not everyone has voted yet. Thoughts?

 

I have both. I ran the solid in stock class because I saw wheel lift with anything but the stiffest 2 settings on the solid.

In STR, I run the hollow, because it is significantly lighter than the solid. You could use the solid bar as a curling bar. You can run spring rates to get a good balance, and you should have no issues tuning the rest with the range of the regular hollow bar.

I don't have any body roll/rubbing uses using it. I have 800#f/650#r springs, "b stock" koni's, 255 RS3's, no rear sway bar, and the normal rolled fender inner lip.

Also, mine currently understeers a lot. I'd like to go 700 or 750# rear springs, and maybe soften the front if needed. I don't think I'd ever even want the stiffness of the solid bar up front unless I still had a beefy rear bar on.

 

If I didn't have a solid bar already I would prolly go with the hollow bar since it's lighter and set it at full stiff. Then tune the rest of the car.

I'll also add the second place ap1 at nationals ran a hollow bar on full stiff.

Just make sure you buy the ball bearing mounts.

 

Don't forget there are two hollow bars. The soft hollow and the super duper stiff hollow. Which hollow one are you referring to?

Please elaborate. Is it a performance and/or reliability thing?

Thanks,

-Dave