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I almost pulled the trigger on new speakers and Modifry speaker rings but I wanted to get the NVH job done and not string it out. Actually, with a new HU from Sony and the plug and play stuff frOne of my big questions is how did you get that thinsulateom Modifry, I was pleasantly surprised how well the stock 2009 speakers sounded with a lot more power and sound deadening in the doors.
I am curious how it will work out for you.
One of my big questions is how did you get that Thinsulate way up inside the doors?? not much of a hole to get access through. And just use spray adhesive?
Yes. I used 3M spray headliner adhesive. I sprayed horizontal lines between the bars and objects. First I cut and fit the Thinsulate into the position I wanted realizing it needed to be higher/taller than the actual placement because of the wavy installation required over the door bars. Once I was happy with that I applied the adhesive and let it set up. I wadded/ folded somewhat the Thinsulate in position and starting with the top, I pressed that into position. I then pressed the next lower section allowing enough to flow over the door bars and objects. I finished on the bottom. I checked the window and door locking all worked without interference.
Last edited by cosmomiller; Feb 15, 2023 at 10:49 AM.
Yes. I used 3M spray headliner adhesive. I sprayed horizontal lines between the bars and objects. I wadded/ folded somewhat the Thinsulate in position and starting with the top, I pressed that into position. I then pressed the next lower section allowing enough to flow over the door bars and objects. I finished on the bottom.
Yes. I used 3M spray headliner adhesive. I sprayed horizontal lines between the bars and objects. First I cut and fit the Thinsulate into the position I wanted realizing it needed to be higher/taller than the actual placement because of the wavy installation required over the door bars. Once I was happy with that I applied the adhesive and let it set up. I wadded/ folded somewhat the Thinsulate in position and starting with the top, I pressed that into position. I then pressed the next lower section allowing enough to flow over the door bars and objects. I finished on the bottom. I checked the window and door locking all worked without interference.
One more thing, did you spray just the door , or the door and the Thinsulate both?
Well I finally started this project this afternoon, got the passenger door done and put back together along with a new set of speakers. Took me a bit but I wasn't in a rush and had to do some re-wiring for the speakers.
Started with the deadening sheets (so sorry forgot to take pics inside the door till it was too late, I'll take pics of the other door tomorrow)
After getting the inside of the doors done time to get the speakers set up. This is a Modifry speaker ring. Due to the fact the new speakers are deeper and larger the little stock speaker "cups" would not work. The Modifry ring worked perfect!
And with the speaker installed and wired to the tweeter.
And I opted to put the Thinsulate on the door card. Wasn't comfortable spraying the adhesive up inside the door.
I only sprayed adhesive on the inside of the door skin. I did not spray ( as I recall) the thinsulate because it was too difficult to know where the contact points would be. I have installed several pool table "felts" (worsted cloth really) and each used the same adhesive that is only applied to the slate and not the cloth or material. I am comfortable with the properties of the adhesive on one surface to apply the Thinsulate. I have had no issues with it in a decade.
You may find that putting the thicker Thinsulate on the door panel will result in difficulty attaching back to the door. From your picture it looks thick. The Thinsulate I used for the door panels was as thick as cloth and did not have a backing. I discovered the hard way how thicker Thinsulate made reassembly of the door problematic.
You made me think about how much spray I used up in the door. I don't think I used too much because the stiff nature of the thick Thinsulate kept it in place between the glass and the door with the lower portion being anchored securely. I does not have anywhere to go.
Last edited by cosmomiller; Feb 15, 2023 at 04:44 PM.
I only sprayed adhesive on the inside of the door skin. I did not spray ( as I recall) the thinsulate because it was too difficult to know where the contact points would be. I have installed several pool table "felts" (worsted cloth really) and each used the same adhesive that is only applied to the slate and not the cloth or material. I am comfortable with the properties of the adhesive on one surface to apply the Thinsulate. I have had no issues with it in a decade.
You may find that putting the thicker Thinsulate on the door panel will result in difficulty attaching back to the door. From your picture it looks thick. The Thinsulate I used for the door panels was as thick as cloth and did not have a backing. I discovered the hard way how thicker Thinsulate made reassembly of the door problematic.
You made me think about how much spray I used up in the door. I don't think I used too much because the stiff nature of the thick Thinsulate kept it in place between the glass and the door with the lower portion being anchored securely. I does not have anywhere to go.
Actually the door card went on rather easily, there is enough relief in the card to allow the Thinsulate go in without a problem (AU4002-5). Laid the card on the Thinsulate back side down and cut a piece out, then flipped it over and trimmed it to fit and cut around all the attachment points. My concern was if the door latch and the locking rods would function properly, I was fully ready to remove the card to adjust things to get it to work but all was fine.
Ok, I just finished door #2, same basic set up as the first door only quicker to do due to practice on the first door, and as promised here is a pic of the interior of the door and the deadening material installed.
And I think a little blood is to be expected playing inside that door!
So I figured I would go for a drive to check for a change of decibels... or not. Here are before and after readings with just the doors done, no other changes.
60-65 mph down local 2 lane roads, Average decibels for about a mile travel in 5th and 6th gear..
TOP UP BEFORE
5th Gear : 82
6th Gear : 83.7
AFTER
5th gear : 79.7
6th gear : 81.3
TOP DOWN BEFORE
5th Gear : 85
6th gear : 84.6
AFTER
5th gear : 83.2
6th gear : 81
So a drop in decibels for sure,2-3 decibels across the board . And the new speakers sound WAY better!
Started on the inside, passenger side first for no reason other than that's where I started. Got the seat out and removed everything around the perimeter of the pan and pulled the carpet loose. Not going to go up under the dash to remove everything to get all the carpet out, not sure it is necessary for that extra foot or so of carpet. Found some wiring that I'm sure was for an amp or subwoofer in the trunk or something, went back to the spare tire hole and was just spooled up there, didn't need it so I removed it. Tomorrow I'll start the dead mats then the Thinsulate. I think I'll just do the passenger side to its finish then move to the driver side, and at least the area where the spare tire is and then the rest of the trunk if I have enough materials.
Got the carpet out
Quite a bit of padding under the carpet. Notice the extra wires running next to the door sill
And a little bit of factory sound deadening on the tunnel (?)
Here is the terminus of the wiring I found, 3 wires went straight to the radio and the large one a direct line to the battery.. unhooked of course.
