-Official- Is this car worth it thread - vol. 2
Yeah in third or fourth you should definitely hear it change to the high cam but I don't really feel like it 'kicks' like a B16 in a civic Si does. If you test drive it again I would floor it in 2nd from about 2k rpms and take it to the redline, you should be able to notice the power come on strongly past 6000.
and I agree with you, I test drove quite a few s2000s before buying mine and they all felt different, I ended up buying one that had the most dings/scratches on the outside but had by far the best feeling engine and transmission. Some that I drove had terrible sounds coming from the transmission/driveshaft/diff are and the owners tried to pass it off as normal. Maybe try and drive two different ones back to back and see how they compare.
and I agree with you, I test drove quite a few s2000s before buying mine and they all felt different, I ended up buying one that had the most dings/scratches on the outside but had by far the best feeling engine and transmission. Some that I drove had terrible sounds coming from the transmission/driveshaft/diff are and the owners tried to pass it off as normal. Maybe try and drive two different ones back to back and see how they compare.
The flash pro 06 option is a huge bonus. For $500 you can improve mid-range power, raise redline and 'play' with data and settings.
For me, <50K is low mileage on the year and I'd get the 06 over the 03. You also pick up TCS, which some people like - I don't care for it.
Pricing for both seems in the zone for clean cars.
For me, <50K is low mileage on the year and I'd get the 06 over the 03. You also pick up TCS, which some people like - I don't care for it.
Pricing for both seems in the zone for clean cars.
guys the clutch is hydraulic and the 'grab' point never changes through the life of the clutch. Bad bleed or loss of fluid will change the grab point - not clutch wear. This would lead him to thinking the grab point was near the floor though. Next you're going to be telling him to check the power steering fluid...
OP - The clutch grabs high because this is considered better for driving a performance car. It allows you to use less travel for faster shifts.
vtec - check oil levels on the car. It should engage but might not 'pop' like on the ap2. If oil level is good you're probably just expecting too much from the shift. Remember the ap1's power or 'pull' is all at the top end 7.5k+ plus. If the owner lets you get up there it will pull strong. Still concerned compression numbers will show you any motor problems (already covered by posters).
OP - The clutch grabs high because this is considered better for driving a performance car. It allows you to use less travel for faster shifts.
vtec - check oil levels on the car. It should engage but might not 'pop' like on the ap2. If oil level is good you're probably just expecting too much from the shift. Remember the ap1's power or 'pull' is all at the top end 7.5k+ plus. If the owner lets you get up there it will pull strong. Still concerned compression numbers will show you any motor problems (already covered by posters).
Originally Posted by Syn' timestamp='1339724813' post='21783017
Clutch could be any number of things, but wear is probably not one of them at 45k unless it was abused. Did it slip at any point? It could just be due for a fluid change or adjustment. See this thread, post 13 for info on adjusting: https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/275...ge-this-early/
Brakes, can't say just by measurement (I just don't know what is considered good) but they aren't exactly expensive nor hard to replace yourself.
Vtec: No clue on the AP1, but I've read it's not as abrupt as the AP2 is stock. It's not some huge night and day difference like a turbo spooling, though. Some people seem to think it is...
Plugs: Not sure. If it was at 21k and the car now sits at 45k it's probably fine.
Sorry I couldn't be more help. I'm sure more posts will come along.
Brakes, can't say just by measurement (I just don't know what is considered good) but they aren't exactly expensive nor hard to replace yourself.
Vtec: No clue on the AP1, but I've read it's not as abrupt as the AP2 is stock. It's not some huge night and day difference like a turbo spooling, though. Some people seem to think it is...
Plugs: Not sure. If it was at 21k and the car now sits at 45k it's probably fine.
Sorry I couldn't be more help. I'm sure more posts will come along.
BTW - This forum is awesome thank you all so much!
guys the clutch is hydraulic and the 'grab' point never changes through the life of the clutch. Bad bleed or loss of fluid will change the grab point - not clutch wear. This would lead him to thinking the grab point was near the floor though. Next you're going to be telling him to check the power steering fluid...
OP - The clutch grabs high because this is considered better for driving a performance car. It allows you to use less travel for faster shifts.
vtec - check oil levels on the car. It should engage but might not 'pop' like on the ap2. If oil level is good you're probably just expecting too much from the shift. Remember the ap1's power or 'pull' is all at the top end 7.5k+ plus. If the owner lets you get up there it will pull strong. Still concerned compression numbers will show you any motor problems (already covered by posters).
OP - The clutch grabs high because this is considered better for driving a performance car. It allows you to use less travel for faster shifts.
vtec - check oil levels on the car. It should engage but might not 'pop' like on the ap2. If oil level is good you're probably just expecting too much from the shift. Remember the ap1's power or 'pull' is all at the top end 7.5k+ plus. If the owner lets you get up there it will pull strong. Still concerned compression numbers will show you any motor problems (already covered by posters).
I cant believe I put "VTECH"
good catch rob-2.
i don't understand how the car has a salvaged title when it only had minor rear damage. something doesn't make sense there. let's see, so salvage title and a soft top that def. needs to be replaced...12-14K? just throwing out a random number.
A salvage title typically means it has been in an accident with enough damage to consider the car totalled--- that usually means damage at least equalling 70-80% of the cars value (or more). On an '06, that means $15k+ in damage.
I'd walk away from this one-- the description saying "minor damage" and having a salvage title don't equal ( if it had a salvage title and you could see pictures of the damage done that caused it to be considered totaled and knew or could check out the repair shop, it may be an OK buy but none of that info is being offered here.)
Plus, if your buddy buys this one and wants to ever sell it, it has a salvage title and he won't be able to tell prospective buyers what happened that caused the salvage title so the resale value will be very very low......
I'd walk away from this one-- the description saying "minor damage" and having a salvage title don't equal ( if it had a salvage title and you could see pictures of the damage done that caused it to be considered totaled and knew or could check out the repair shop, it may be an OK buy but none of that info is being offered here.)
Plus, if your buddy buys this one and wants to ever sell it, it has a salvage title and he won't be able to tell prospective buyers what happened that caused the salvage title so the resale value will be very very low......
So been on the hunt for over two months going to look at it and pick it up Tuesday it's a 2001 gpw with black interior with 56k miles on it it's imaculate for 14,500 so tell me guys a good deal it's all stock with cr wheels on it




