I stopped reading when I saw the engine light coming on. For me, I'm walking away right that moment.

It's one thing if it's been your car, and you know the history of the CEL, and you know exactly what code/parts/non-issue. It's another thing buying a car with CEL(s), and you don't know the history of it.

 

This has not been my experience. What kinds of things are you referring to?

 

Well... haha, one of the wheel nut came loose on my way home on the night of pick up, and my wheel studs were stretched as I could only tighten up the remaining 4 nuts on the rear driver side wheel. Knuckle and stuff had to be replaced. Pure dumb luck, cause the car test drove fine.

I'm currently in the process of replacing a bunch of suspension bushings/endlinks that may not be evident on a test drive. You know, the kind of clunks that aren't always apparent to the 3rd person, but to the owner, it feels like grinding teeth? Haha. Good thing is, they're just wear items.

I'll update on my little welcome thread on everything I've replaced thus far.

That's what I meant, wear-items don't usually creep up to a 3rd person, but to an (new/next) owner... oh man are they evident.

 

He said it was the first time the light came on in 8 years of ownership, I shook it up to murphy's law. Now I don't know if he does things himself but I don't think he does. If the Carfax shows nothing but the oil changes he has got done, then that suggests he truly never took it to a shop to service an engine light as that would go on the Carfax.

He got it at 130k and it's at 160k after 8 years so that's not very many kms per year. That's only 18640 in miles that he drove. Carfax will also show when it switched hands so alot of his claims will be tested soon enough, and I trust the guy anyways, it's just insurance.


^stone chips

If things don't add up I will walk, but so far he's been straight as a nail with me and for that I don't mind coming up from 13500 to 14750 as a measure of good will. As my old man says, you gotta give something to get something. I just got paid and got some backpay so I'm able to afford the extra I offered as well as an inspection without having to give up smoking weed this month lol

 

I can always appreciate honesty. My seller was upfront about some of the imperfections of my car, and I could tell he was a car enthusiast and thus, the trust was rising the more and more we talked.

Not to mention.... Remember that wheel nut mishap on the highway on the drive back? Well, I called him (this was ~11pm at night by the time we finished our transaction), he came out to help me look at the car. He even refunded me some of the money back to me as he took some of the responsibility for my bad luck, because afterall, he did JUST sell the car to me.

He only refunded me $100 USD, wasn't enough for parts/labor of the knuckle, but that gesture went a LONG LONG way for me. And it was greatly appreciate it.

If you are comfortable with your seller, and you're accepting of the car's imperfections, then go for it. You should have a blast with the car man.

 

The rear bumper clips getting a bit loose is normal. The rest I would have to think harder about before purchasing.

 

My main concern is that engine light and the slight click I mentioned. I think I'm gonna test drive another this weekend and see if shifting feels the same in that one. This one I can probably talk down to my budget, but has a really ugly brown paint job with red accents, and the trunk bay is yellow which tells me he cheaped out on the paint job, which suggests he cuts corners.

Mechanically he claims it's supurb- so hopefully if drives the same and that will give me some peace of mind on the yellow one. The only way I'd buy the brown one is if I could get it far cheaper because I'd 100% have to repaint it, it's ugly, but my favorite part is bodywork afterall. the guy with brown one is asking too much because he just painted it so probably not

 

@bradyn 14750 no way. NOT EVEN in the same ballpark with those miles and total lack of maintenance done to the car. I would keep on looking. Avoid I would do 11k max for something like that
Keep looking

I looked for an S2000 for about 8 months before I pulled the trigger. I still I got an OK deal but no after owning one. There are already really good topics on what to look for and what not. Owning one really helps to spot the issues.
Just note anytime you get a car from someone you are going to want to do all the fluids yourself so you know it's done right {Unless they have paperwork or proof it was done}
This really adds up, Diff fluid is about 30, Trans is about 40, Oil is about 40, Brake is about 30, and up this is just if you do it yourself. Way more if you pay someone to do it.
Something to note is always going to be the clutch, how many miles is on it? Clutch buzz this is another very expensive maintenance they needs to be done. Anytime a motor has over 100k miles they should at least be on there 2ed or even 3ed clutch with 150 + I would hope so.
Check Values and Adjustment another expensive maintenance they needs to be done. This should always be factored into buying a car; along with the top they have.
Clutch and Flywheel is going to be 750 if you go with a ATC and OEM disk ie the best combo [I LOVE MINE]
If price is a deal you can get a good deal on a salvaged car as well a clean title will help a bit with resale; but if you plan on tracking and keeping the car that isn't an issue.
S2000 are great cars and MADE to be DRIVEN, they are a sexy garage queen; keep looking and find the right one for you

 

hey dude

14750 Canadian $ is 11,150 American $

I figure its a fair price, this is what you meant right?

Choosings are slim in canada, and im gonna have to pay a fair price if i want one to build up, im not gonna find a good deal.

Also, i love bodywork, more than anything. Ill baby it until october, then do all sorts of maintenance & fluids over the winter, and go hard come spring.

 

Move on...this is a real POS...