I beg to differ with the cold oil change theory. The oil should be warm and recently 'stirred' to ensure getting out all of the carbon, metal particles, etc. while they're still suspended in the oil. If you let the car sit until cold, these particles will separate from the oil and cling to the pan. An easy experiment for this theory is to take some recently changed (still warm with suspended particles) motor oil and put it into 2 clear containers (like milk jugs). Let them both sit overnight, then the next morning warm one of them back up in a pan of hot water and shake it vigorously then pour out the contents. Next pour out the room temperature oil, and let it drain as long as you want. Then compare the two containers. This should settle any questions that you might have.

 

My oil change prep consists of calling the dealer and making an appointment. I used to change it myself, but if you ever sell the car those service records showing the oil changes are important. Not to mention, I'm just a wee bit lazy.

 

I was told a long time ago by a person in the lubricant industry that hot oil holds the dirt in suspension better than cold.I always change my oil when it is hot.

 

To cdelena,

I was told this by a friend a long time ago. I really don't know much about it except it has always been the way I've done it. Your way make sense too. Either way should work as well whether the oil is draining into the pan or out the drain plug hole. My only question would be that by draining the oil cold do you leave some muck in the oil pan?

 

I change the oil every 3 months or 3,000 miles. There is no muck, the dirt is suspended in the oil.

Oil is engineered to suspend dirt, and filters to catch any particle of size, so If there is enough stuff in the oil that it actually settles out in a day of inactivity, the oil should have been changed long before.

I

 

Whether you change hot or "cold" probably is ok either way, unless fairly close to freezing, which is too cold and it will not drain properly.

I drain mine hot, so it will drain quicker and more thoroughly, as I am not going to prolong a 20 minute job into lasting overnight.

Most of you change your oil frequently, where dirt is not going to be a problem anyway. The filter should always be changed, which is really important.

Most wear on the engine is in the first few seconds after startup. I fill the oil filter with fresh oil prior to screwing it on - this means quicker circulation upon startup (don't forget to include this as part of the total volume of oil you are putting in).

Honda recommends changing bikes hot. I always do my Valkyrie this way - 28,000 miles in 2 summers - has never missed a beat! Don't see why this wouldn't work for the S Car, too.

 

A simple test. Check your oil after running your engine and see how dirty it is on the dipstick compared to letting it sit overnight.