It would be...but most people wouldn't pull out of the lower gear, pause for the revs to drop and select the higher gear (match the revs). MOST people would go from 9K RPM in 2nd to an upshift skipping several gears and expect the synchros to do the work of droping the revs 3000-5000RPM.

You can do whatever you want as long as you match revs and you won't hurt the synchros. That is, if you always matched them perfectly.

 

[QUOTE=Wildncrazy,Oct 16 2006, 10:26 AM]Many people say transmissions are spring loaded to automatically select 3rd. This is a standard feature on every modern tranny.

 

That's not exactly the way I was taught to double-clutch. Here's the way I learned it ...

1) Release throttle and depress clutch at the same time so that the transmisison unloads and the clutch disengages, so that there is no load when the transmission slides into neutral.

2) With the transmission still in neutral, release the clutch and rev the engine to the speed it will be running at after the lower gear is engaged. This matches the speed of the gears that will be engaging.

3) Push the clutch back in, and engage the lower gear. If the previous step was done properly there will be close to zero resistance as the next gear is engaged (because the synchros and lockout ring don't have any work to do to match up the shaft speeds in the transmission).

I totally agree regarding upshifting. On upshifting, rowing through the gears with the clutch in allows each synchro to do it's part of the job, and I don't think it's actually skip shifting (since you are engaging every gear). There is no reason to let out the clutch in every gear beause the gear is engaged whether the clutch is or not.

 

so does it mean we have to do upshift like 1>2>3>4>5>6 (on ramp)?
and downshift like 6>5>4>3>2 (when getting off highway)?

 

We've had a number of recent discussions on the topic.

Basically, think of engine rpms and transmission rpms separately.

The synchros are on the transmission side and don't necessarily have anything to do with the engine rpms (especially if the clutch is in).

Upshifting:
You should hit every gear on the way up.
You don't have to clutch out between each shift. You're just trying to change the transmission shaft speed.

I usually accelerate briskly through 1, 2, 3... then when clutching in for 4... I row through 4 and 5. When I let out in 5th, the rpms have fallen enough that they match the engine rpms perfectly.

Downshifting:
Generally, you should hit every gear on the way down. Once again, you can do this with the clutch in if you like. You'll have to blip the throttle to match the rpms when you let out the clutch.

The caveat is: if you give enough time for the transmission shaft to slow down, then you don't have to hit each gear on the way down.

Like at the end of a ramp when you're stopping for a red light.

 

if you have worn synchros.
how much does it usually cost to fix?

 

~$600 for a used transmission + install is probably the cheapest route.

There are lots of diy maintenance items to check off before giving up on a transmission. Check the FAQ in Under the Hood.

 

just one noob question from me...

when downshifting, say from 4th to 3rd.. should i:

4th>clutch in>N>rev match>clutch in>3rd? or:
4th>clutch in>N>clutch in>rev match>3rd? or:
4th>clutch in>N>clutch in>3rd>rev match?
(lets just say i allowed the rev's to fall down to or near idle)

if that needs to be further explained in detail, please let me know.. im kind of confused on when i should rev match etc..

or for quicker shifting, if i were accelerating:

4th>clutch in>rev match>3rd>clutch out

?

 

i never knew that, the s2k was my first manual, somehow instinctually i never did skip shift, it just didn't seem natural.

 

Just run the shifter through the gears you are "skipping" before you let out the clutch and you get all the benefits of not skipping without needing to let out the clutch for each gear.