AEM Engine Management System (Q & A)
06-01-2006, 06:05 PM
#171
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i am going to try a used 1012 EMS in a AP1 this weekend. i bought the unit used, and the seller agreed to send the unit out after he received 50% of the payment. once i confirm the unit is working, i will send the other 50%.
any tips when i hook it up? it will be plugged into a stock AP1. stock basemap will be loaded into the unit. we will test that the car cranks, starts and idles.
if it does all of that, is it safe to assume that the unit works 100%?
should i be concerned about timing? we do not plan on reving the motor, the test is strictly to test the functionality of the EMS.
Any help is appreciated.
Thx
any tips when i hook it up? it will be plugged into a stock AP1. stock basemap will be loaded into the unit. we will test that the car cranks, starts and idles.
if it does all of that, is it safe to assume that the unit works 100%?
should i be concerned about timing? we do not plan on reving the motor, the test is strictly to test the functionality of the EMS.
Any help is appreciated.
Thx
06-01-2006, 11:05 PM
#172
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make sure you load the latest basemap for the 1012
If the motor cranks/starts/idles(warm or cold)
the unit most likely is entirely functional
the reason i say "most likely" is due to the compartmentalized nature of the ems. This means that unless somthing fundamental like power in/out is f-ed up, the rest of the unit will continue to work as it should. IE if the output to the radiator fan is not working, the rest of the aem outputs will continue to work, but the radiator fan wont.
So the only way to know that the unit is 100% functional involves 3 steps
1. Confirm that the main board and communication and memory work, by powering the aem and communicating with a laptop (load data, download data, firmware, etc). Also make sure that if you turn it off an walk away for a while and comeback all the data that was loaded on is still there.
2. Use a scope to test all of the outputs, you will need to probe the pin corresponding to the desired output, and switch the output on/off through aempro and make sure the signal on the scope does what its supposed to.
3. Confirm all inputs work by viewing the relevant parameters in aempro, while somehow stimulating either the sensors or hooking up some sort of signal generator or voltage source (dont try these unless you know exactly what your doing).
The above process will be tedious to say the least. But Its the only way to know 100%. The reasons bieng that:
a) as mentioned above individual outputs can go bad and the rest will work.
b) if a non-essential input to the aem doesnt work, the aem can compensate and run in a non-optimal manner
c) given the extra outputs available on the aem which are for devices that dont exist on a stock s2k (example boost controller), just knowing that your oem setup motor runs, doesnt tell you that you will be able to add certain things in the future and expect them to work.
You should also know that AEM has a excellent warranty, which they say is for only 1 year, but i have gotten them to ignore the rule a few times. They will perform any repair needed to make the system 100% for free and ship it back free. But even the techs dont test each input and output, so if you want it fixed 100% you need to tell them exactly what is wrong with it.
If the motor cranks/starts/idles(warm or cold)
the unit most likely is entirely functional
the reason i say "most likely" is due to the compartmentalized nature of the ems. This means that unless somthing fundamental like power in/out is f-ed up, the rest of the unit will continue to work as it should. IE if the output to the radiator fan is not working, the rest of the aem outputs will continue to work, but the radiator fan wont.
So the only way to know that the unit is 100% functional involves 3 steps
1. Confirm that the main board and communication and memory work, by powering the aem and communicating with a laptop (load data, download data, firmware, etc). Also make sure that if you turn it off an walk away for a while and comeback all the data that was loaded on is still there.
2. Use a scope to test all of the outputs, you will need to probe the pin corresponding to the desired output, and switch the output on/off through aempro and make sure the signal on the scope does what its supposed to.
3. Confirm all inputs work by viewing the relevant parameters in aempro, while somehow stimulating either the sensors or hooking up some sort of signal generator or voltage source (dont try these unless you know exactly what your doing).
The above process will be tedious to say the least. But Its the only way to know 100%. The reasons bieng that:
a) as mentioned above individual outputs can go bad and the rest will work.
b) if a non-essential input to the aem doesnt work, the aem can compensate and run in a non-optimal manner
c) given the extra outputs available on the aem which are for devices that dont exist on a stock s2k (example boost controller), just knowing that your oem setup motor runs, doesnt tell you that you will be able to add certain things in the future and expect them to work.
You should also know that AEM has a excellent warranty, which they say is for only 1 year, but i have gotten them to ignore the rule a few times. They will perform any repair needed to make the system 100% for free and ship it back free. But even the techs dont test each input and output, so if you want it fixed 100% you need to tell them exactly what is wrong with it.
06-02-2006, 01:59 AM
#174
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BTW Tiz, my EMS is "browning out" after just a few minutes with the engine off, making it impossible to down load my data logs. (With the engine on it's just fine) My battery seams to be draining down very fast, but the Alt. is producing 14.2 - 14.5VDC @ idle. Any ideas what could be the cause? Keep in mind that I have a wide band O2 and UEGO AFR gauge, and both come online with the ignition active. (I have a 12V relay installed)
06-02-2006, 05:42 AM
#175
Moderator
Originally Posted by Stoner_1,Jun 2 2006, 01:19 AM
Tiz... Any advice on how to improve my cold starts within the EMS software?
BTW: I have the latest and greatest basemap installed.... Modified by torquefreaks.
BTW: I have the latest and greatest basemap installed.... Modified by torquefreaks.
06-03-2006, 09:14 AM
#178
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Originally Posted by tizbad2k,Jun 2 2006, 12:05 AM
make sure you load the latest basemap for the 1012
If the motor cranks/starts/idles(warm or cold)
the unit most likely is entirely functional
the reason i say "most likely" is due to the compartmentalized nature of the ems. This means that unless somthing fundamental like power in/out is f-ed up, the rest of the unit will continue to work as it should. IE if the output to the radiator fan is not working, the rest of the aem outputs will continue to work, but the radiator fan wont.
So the only way to know that the unit is 100% functional involves 3 steps
1. Confirm that the main board and communication and memory work, by powering the aem and communicating with a laptop (load data, download data, firmware, etc). Also make sure that if you turn it off an walk away for a while and comeback all the data that was loaded on is still there.
2. Use a scope to test all of the outputs, you will need to probe the pin corresponding to the desired output, and switch the output on/off through aempro and make sure the signal on the scope does what its supposed to.
3. Confirm all inputs work by viewing the relevant parameters in aempro, while somehow stimulating either the sensors or hooking up some sort of signal generator or voltage source (dont try these unless you know exactly what your doing).
The above process will be tedious to say the least. But Its the only way to know 100%. The reasons bieng that:
a) as mentioned above individual outputs can go bad and the rest will work.
b) if a non-essential input to the aem doesnt work, the aem can compensate and run in a non-optimal manner
c) given the extra outputs available on the aem which are for devices that dont exist on a stock s2k (example boost controller), just knowing that your oem setup motor runs, doesnt tell you that you will be able to add certain things in the future and expect them to work.
You should also know that AEM has a excellent warranty, which they say is for only 1 year, but i have gotten them to ignore the rule a few times. They will perform any repair needed to make the system 100% for free and ship it back free. But even the techs dont test each input and output, so if you want it fixed 100% you need to tell them exactly what is wrong with it.
If the motor cranks/starts/idles(warm or cold)
the unit most likely is entirely functional
the reason i say "most likely" is due to the compartmentalized nature of the ems. This means that unless somthing fundamental like power in/out is f-ed up, the rest of the unit will continue to work as it should. IE if the output to the radiator fan is not working, the rest of the aem outputs will continue to work, but the radiator fan wont.
So the only way to know that the unit is 100% functional involves 3 steps
1. Confirm that the main board and communication and memory work, by powering the aem and communicating with a laptop (load data, download data, firmware, etc). Also make sure that if you turn it off an walk away for a while and comeback all the data that was loaded on is still there.
2. Use a scope to test all of the outputs, you will need to probe the pin corresponding to the desired output, and switch the output on/off through aempro and make sure the signal on the scope does what its supposed to.
3. Confirm all inputs work by viewing the relevant parameters in aempro, while somehow stimulating either the sensors or hooking up some sort of signal generator or voltage source (dont try these unless you know exactly what your doing).
The above process will be tedious to say the least. But Its the only way to know 100%. The reasons bieng that:
a) as mentioned above individual outputs can go bad and the rest will work.
b) if a non-essential input to the aem doesnt work, the aem can compensate and run in a non-optimal manner
c) given the extra outputs available on the aem which are for devices that dont exist on a stock s2k (example boost controller), just knowing that your oem setup motor runs, doesnt tell you that you will be able to add certain things in the future and expect them to work.
You should also know that AEM has a excellent warranty, which they say is for only 1 year, but i have gotten them to ignore the rule a few times. They will perform any repair needed to make the system 100% for free and ship it back free. But even the techs dont test each input and output, so if you want it fixed 100% you need to tell them exactly what is wrong with it.
looks like i am going to keep this unit.
11-17-2008, 02:07 PM
#179
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how would a cai ruin your motor in rain? do u not have a hood lol???
I have a K&N cold air intake it sounds good, cant feel a difference in power but gained about a mile per gallon. If you want Power go turbo, thats what im doing Inline Pro all the way
I have a K&N cold air intake it sounds good, cant feel a difference in power but gained about a mile per gallon. If you want Power go turbo, thats what im doing Inline Pro all the way
11-17-2008, 03:22 PM
#180
Former Moderator
Wow...thread from the dead!
Saxton...now search for "hydrolock". The AEM style intakes are located low enough to suck water when driving through large puddles or flooded streets and the filter is located directly below a water drain hole allowing rain to puddle in the intake tube when the car is sitting still.
Saxton...now search for "hydrolock". The AEM style intakes are located low enough to suck water when driving through large puddles or flooded streets and the filter is located directly below a water drain hole allowing rain to puddle in the intake tube when the car is sitting still.
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