Correct timing
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The cam timing in your image is 100% perfect, guaranteed.
Cam timing is not your problem.
What year is the car?
What year is the engine?
Cam timing is not your problem.
What year is the car?
What year is the engine?
Last edited by Billman250; Jul 10, 2018 at 03:49 AM.
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From: Long Island, New York
You have to imagine the line on the camshaft sprockets one tooth down, or up. By that logic, it is very easy to see that the timing is correct.
Was the entire engine replaced?
This thread is full of bad advice. Any posts that take someone down the wrong path to repair will be removed. Lots of complicated work is advised when none of it is needed. Starting to resemble FB.
Was the entire engine replaced?
This thread is full of bad advice. Any posts that take someone down the wrong path to repair will be removed. Lots of complicated work is advised when none of it is needed. Starting to resemble FB.
Last edited by Billman250; Jul 10, 2018 at 04:06 AM.
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2002 Honda S2000 f20c engine with 100,000 miles on it. When I bought the car he said it was a rebuilt title so the motor is a swap from another car they did the swap but didn’t finish all the work. He thinks it’s the timing because he never got it to start. Everybody saying the timing looks correct by that picture not sure which action to take next?
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Joined: Jul 2018
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You have to imagine the line on the camshaft sprockets one tooth down, or up. By that logic, it is very easy to see that the timing is correct.
Was the entire engine replaced?
This thread is full of bad advice. Any posts that take someone down the wrong path to repair will be removed. Lots of complicated work is advised when none of it is needed. Starting to resemble FB.
Was the entire engine replaced?
This thread is full of bad advice. Any posts that take someone down the wrong path to repair will be removed. Lots of complicated work is advised when none of it is needed. Starting to resemble FB.
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So at this point we have determined that the cam timing is correct and that there is fuel getting to the spark plugs. That leaves spark/ignition, so that's where the OP should be focused on at this point. Always start at the easiest/basic stuff first ie all sensors and ecu, ground wires from engine swap plugged in, no fuses blown etc.
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So at this point we have determined that the cam timing is correct and that there is fuel getting to the spark plugs. That leaves spark/ignition, so that's where the OP should be focused on at this point. Always start at the easiest/basic stuff first ie all sensors and ecu, ground wires from engine swap plugged in, no fuses blown etc.
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I agree they should be checked anyway as common practice considering the head was removed. But I would find this least likely the cause of the engine giving no signs of life. Worst case scenario the engine should at least give a sign of firing in one or a couple of cylinders even if all the valves were out of spec to large degree. Every cylinder would have to have valves be so tight that no valve was seating enough to develop any compression in the cylinder. I would be really surprised if that were the case.
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Check the engine serial, left front top corner of the block, see if its a 2.2L. Common swap as they are more plentiful.
If it is, and has the DBW trigger wheel, it will not run.
Also verify the green key light comes on when you turn the key on, then goes off.
If it is, and has the DBW trigger wheel, it will not run.
Also verify the green key light comes on when you turn the key on, then goes off.