The idea behind the baffled pan is cool, however.....IMO the s2k is the last car that needs it. Is there an oil starvation issue I've never heard of? As much time as I've spent with the s2k, between working on them and driving mine to the limit, it would be a new issue to me.

 

Billman250 Posted on Apr 27 2007, 10:35 PM
IIRC from reading on sk2i, when tracking the car on slicks or other race compound tires (in combination with suspension tuning?) that allow higher cornering speeds there is the possibility of oil being "g-forced" away fom the oil pickup point during long fast corners (maybe in combination with lower oil levels at the end of a race?)
I can't remember where I've been reading that, probably in the Racing & Competetion section.

What kind of oil pan would the S2000-CR have?

 

There is an oil starvation issue. High G, long duration, left turns -- engine go boom. But to put it in context, this has mainly been seen by cars running full racing slicks on banked oval tracks. California Speedway in Fontana has eaten several S2000 engines, and probably a few others around the country have done so as well.

As I said above, I think the actual problem is that the oil does not drain from the head. If so, a baffled oil pan is going to buy you little or nothing. The true cure for this is a dry sump. But there may be marginal situations where the baffled pan buys you just enough margin to squeek by compared to an OEM pan -- I don't know for sure.

 

[QUOTE=JAHumphrey,Apr 27 2007, 08:56 AM] Both pictures are from ther infamous Dragon.

 

Interesting...

 

Can I do that with the motor still in the car? I would like to do as much investigation as possible with the motor in. I don't have a lift, so I'll have to take the car somewhere to drop the motor.

 

Yes you can.

That is some terrible news and I have never seen that happen before. Best of luck.

 

I finally made time to crawl back under the car last night. Here are pics of the rod caps:










the oil pump pickup made removing the #1 rod cap more trouble than I wanted to deal with, so I just pulled 2-4.

#2 rod bearing




#3 rod bearing


#4 rod bearing


I considered removing the lower portion of the block with it in the car, but it seems that requires removing the oil pump, which requires removing the timing chain. I think I'll wait until I get the motor out of the car for that. I'm shopping around for a lift to make the job a bit less painful, so it will be a while before I make any further progress.

 

the bearings dont look bad...could it be more serious like your main bearings?

 

yeah, those pics are interesting, i dont see enough damage for you to lose 20+ psi of oil pressure all at once. def wanna see pics of the mains, and then if all is well, prob bad oil pump as you suspected.
if that lil trap door floated up, or was sucked onto the pickup, id say youd have a noticeable "during event" massive oil pressure loss, and within seconds catastrophic failure. those bearings look like they should at 80k. weirdness. then again, the pics are decent, but none of us can diagnos without being there to see the whole picture. still i hope all goes well and your baby is running again soon. later dave

note: popped into my head after i posted, usually struggling to rev, equals thrashed rod bearings, and thats where your at as of now, yet you havent even worn through the babit yet. pull off your vtec solenoid real quick and look for debris there. that will be a good indicator. last set of s2k rod bearings i saw go away, vtec solenoid screen was full of copper shavings.