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You could probably gain 7-12 whp by adding a V-AFC to a stock setup easier than if you add it to a well modified setup. If you already have a high flowing I/H/E, the AFRs will already be leaned out some, so the V-AFC won't be quite as beneficial.
Really, I heard that it wouldent do much at all with the stock set up, and you gain the most on having it with basic bolt ons. Do you have any more info in this?
I have pretty much the same set up as you.....I got the AEM V1 CAI, DC 4-2-1 one piece ceremic header, Tanabe racing medallion dual exhaust, erik's racing 72mm throttle body. I'm just waiting for Toda adjustable cam gears as they are still in the development stage and they should be released onto the market sometime in July this year. I have the V-AFC 2 sitting next to my bed.......I'm hoping to gain about 10 rwhp just by tuning that thing. You have to take it to a dyno shop with the air/fuel measurer and have them tune out your V-AFC. I'm just gonna wait till I get the adjustable cam gears and do the tuning all at once. Let me know how your tuning results go after you get it tuned.
The V-AFC only does 2 things to improve performance. It allows you to adjust VTEC engagement, and lean out the fuel mixture. That's it.
The richer the car runs without fuel tuning, the more you can gain from leaning it out. A stock engine is going to run richer than an engine that has a bunch of good bolt-ons. Therefore, there is less to gain from leaning it out.
For example, if a stock engine runs at 12:1, then you may be able to gain 8 whp by leaning it out to 13.5:1. If you have a bunch of bolt-ons that cause the same engine to run at 12.75:1, then you will probably only be able to gain ~5 whp by leaning it out to the same 13.5:1. (These numbers are pulled straight out of my rectal incision).
For another example, if you put poor bolt-ons on an engine that actually reduce power (like a banana in the tail pipe), then you could probably gain 30+ whp by adding a V-AFC.