If you drive on the street, I'd just get OEM. As noted, the softer poly doesn't seem to last and the medium to hard poly gives vibrations. OEM are designed to give good rigidity but also absorb the vibrations.

To check for failed mounts: Use a long pry bar and the shock tower areas as a fulcrum. Pry up gently below the throttle body on the driver side, and below the vtec solenoid on the passenger side. Good mounts will only allow slight movement and stop. Broken mounts will allow more movement and clunk. This is the billman method. He says it doesn't take much pressure to move a broken mount, so be gentle.

I have 201k, just checked my mounts the other day, and amazingly both are still fine. I do have two broken differential mounts (visual inspection) though, so check those.

 

I had Hasport 62a engine mounts in my car before I installed my Ptuning kit and decided to sell them since I didnt want to split the pair up. 2000 miles and no signs of sagging. Vibration wasn't too bad, you could only feel it at idle. Driving there was no difference except acceleration and shifting was much smoother.

 

If you used OEM bolts on the original steel innovative mounts, I assure you 100% your engine days are numbered until you pull the pan and remove the pieces that will get lodged in the pickup due to serious suction.

SINCE they are billet and are thicker, the math might work in your favor as far as bolt lengths go.

You can take my measurements and stuff from that other thread to the bank.

There will usually be evidence on the bottom of the bolt if it has pressed itself into aluminum.

 

Thanks Billman.

Bolts have no marks on them. No evidence of them going into the casing.

Very very lucky.