I don't think what is being described here is piston slap. If it is, then that's the first I've heard of it in the S2000. What I am very familiar with is valve train noises/flutter on initial start of the day. It goes away after a minute or so. I have had these noises since my car was new, and have found that fuel additives that are predominantly a UCL (upper cylinder lube) can quiet the noises and virtually eliminate them in some cases.

Here are some I've tried so far that have been effective:

Marvel Mystery Oil
http://www.marvelmysteryoil.com/
I used this at a 4oz/10 gallons of fuel. It works very well, but I've moved away from it after analyzing the product. It contains a significant amount of Phosphorus. Since it is carried by a highly volatile carrier oil and combusted to great extent, it may not be safe for catalytic converters. I have never seen it documented in that regard though, and never had a CEL while using it.

FP Plus by LCD, Inc.
http://www.lcdinc.com/products_fuel_power.php
I've used this product with success too, and it is theoretically much safer for the emissions system than MMO. But you have to use 4oz/10 gallon fuel, like MMO for effective UCL on the S2000. This is more expensive than MMO, but probably much safer.

L-X 2300 by LE, Inc.
http://www.le-inc.com/products/documents/2300_flyer.pdf
I'm new to this product and have only used it for about a month now. It shows great promise and the valve train noises are almost diminished to nothing. I am using it at 3oz/10 gallons fuel every fill up. I really like it so far. It costs about $5/16 oz bottle.

I'm sure there are many other UCL fuel additives on the market that will work well, I just haven't tried them. If the noises are annoying enough to you, then maybe trying one is in your future too.

 

If you look at the skirt on the Honda pistons, they are a lot shorter now than they were in years past. A shorted skirt can cause piston slap. Just let the engine warm up some before you drive off, and it will be fine. My 502 in my motorhome is the same way - especially since it only hits the road about once a month. It's done that since day one, and it now has 75,000 hard miles on it with no issues - like the others said - just drive it.

 

ifly1956 Posted on Aug 8 2010, 12:55 PM

Bad advise.
Start - put seat belt / radio / whatever on - drive.
That's the best AND the fastest way to warm up the engine & trans & diff, ect.

I would - and I have - rather pay a little more for a quality 0W-30 true syn than having to dope engine oil with "stuff" to get it to flow.
The BP Ultimate fuel (yeah.. sorry, but BP is almost the only one with RON 98 in NL) is allready a cleaning fuel so no need for anything else.

Without hearing the engine I still seriously doubt it is piston slap.

 

Ill work and getting a video up.

Like you guys mentioned, ill try not to worry about since it drives great and is quieter once things get warmed up.

On a side note- it put down 197whp on the dyno which rules out compression issues...

 

Letting it run for a bit is not bad advise on these engines. The #4 main bearing is the last in line to get oil. Start off right away and see what your bearings look like in 100,000 miles -

I don't move until I have at least on bar on the temp gauge. I also have about 1 1/2 miles before I'm out of my neighborhood and on a main road.

You don't know the details - they person asking the question might live right beside an interstate on ramp. I stick by what I said.

 

Agree with INTJ. Save your cash enjoy the car as long as you can...i mean that or maybe change pistons? which its tall$$ but I'm not sure..and to be honest idk if it could be just changing the pistons? may be more Dx

 

I have the same sound on my 06, I've gotten use to it. Goes away after a minute or 2 depending on temp. Just let it warm up to allow the metal to expand.

 

ifly1956 Posted on Aug 9 2010, 09:38 PM
Any bit longer than it takes to put on a seat belt = yes it is, on every engine.
I never suggested to start the engine full throttle, clutch in with 1st selected and drop the clutch as soon as it fires leaving a rubber trial from the parking spot
If you really think #4 bearing/piston/whatever is starved from oil for any longer than it takes the oil pressure warning light to go off.. you don't know what you're saying.


Scoring of #4 cyl, due to low oil level and/or oil starvation by old style oil jet bolts is an entirely different thing.
(I guess that's where you picked-up the #4 bearing quote)

How close do you think I live from a highway on ramp?
Well..?
About 800 meters, yes, meters.
So this morning, as every morning for the last 7 months, I start the car, drive out of my garage box, close door etc, get back in and drive off (normally).
800 meters later I'm at 4000 rpm doing about 104 km/h with 3 bars on the AP1 temp gauge, after about 4-5 km's I get up to 4500-4700 rpm and do 122-124 km/h for 55 km.
(with 4.57 gears)

Do I feel bad for my engine?
No!
The 0W-30 full true syn I'm using is doing its job perfectly.

Good for you

 

I'm another who believes that the best warm up is idling out of the parking lot and gentle acceleration onto the street in front of my complex. Idling for more than 30 seconds for just about any reason is a sin ... but it seems to be a pastime for some.

INDYMAC, ever try Lucas UCL? I'm not a fan of Lucas lubrication products but their UCL gives me up to about 5% in additional mileage in my Civic. I get the same result from MMO ... but I think the Lucas goo is safer on sensors and emissions equip.

 

No, I have never tried Lucas UCL...just the fuel additives that I mentioned above.

I'm afraid that our fuels are not only bad now, but about to get worse. The ethanol lobbiers are getting their way I guess.