Thanks Billman. I'll send you a PM.

 

Does anyone know what size pentacle bit is needed to remove the IAC valve electric motor (T10, T15, etc.)? Thanks.

 

T-20.

Use no cleaner.

Whip that shaft with you finger into a high speed spin. Get it running free.

If you lightly touch it before cleaning or spinning, you will feel it sticking.

 

Thank you for the reply Billman.

When you say use no cleaner, do you mean on the rotary shaft, electric motor, or both? I ask because earlier in this thread you say to clean the rotary shaft with carb cleaner but that was back in 2011 and additional experience with the IAC valve may have changed that recommendation.

 

Correct, use no cleaner. I have edited my 2011 post. Spin the shaft free and oil the bearings is all you need. One drop of thin oil like roller skate or sewing machine oil will do.

 

On mine I had black deposits on the shaft that I removed with carb cleaner, then used compressed air to dry, and used a little 3in1 oil. Works well now.

 

Once again, thank you Billman.

I would like to add some pictures of the process for anyone else looking to perform this task. My comments are in addition to Billman's instructions.

When you get the IAC valve off, you will need a size T-20 pentacle bit to remove the bolts attaching the electric motor to the IAC valve. I found a set at Northern Tool called "Klutch 5-Lobe Tamper-Resistant Bit Socket Set— 11-Pc." that contained a T-20 bit (but the packaging labeled it an "IPR20" socket) for about $20.



When you remove the bolts make sure you don't lose the spacer plates between the electric motor and the IAC valve body.



There is a tab on the rotary shaft that, from what I've read, needs to be aligned correctly with respect to the electric motor housing when you re-attach the electric motor to the IAC valve; so take a picture or remember the orientation when you re-attach the electric motor.



Billman, please edit my post as you see fit if I have provided any inaccurate information.

 

I'd like to say a big thankyou for the detail and information in this topic thread, it's helped me solve my idling problem that foiled a number of mechanics. I followed these instructions to remove the IAC valve and electronic motor unit in an attempt to clean the valve and rotary shaft. Thanks to these instructions I noticed that the spacer plates between the motor and valve unit were missing, probably from a cleaning attempt by the previous owner. As a result, the motor unit had been screwed in to tight causing restricted movement of the valve.

I’ve managed to fabricate some temporary spacers and reassembled the unit and now it functions correctly.

Does anybody know whether these spacers can be bought individually?

Thanks again, I’m pleased to have a working S2000 again

 

As usual, Billman's method just plain works

 

It's funny reading this thread because my car has done this since the day I've bought it (shakey idle) abd I chocked it up to just be the way it was made. I'm gonna give it a try too and see if it fixes it.