All,
I'm not too happy with myself right now. I think that I hosed my ride's finish.
Last week, my Stook ran powered through a major rock meteor shower. The left fender was hit pretty hard and I had a couple of hits that scraped off the paint all the way down to the sheet metal. I thought that I could take care of it. Initially, I dabbed the Honda pen to the affected areas but was not pleased with the "bubbles" after the applications dried. I used a fine wet/dry sandpaper to level the bumps but in doing so, I believe that I hosed up the surrounding clear coat.
Is there such thing as a clear coat repair? The paint is fine, and I do believe that I didn't sand off the entire top coat... but the sanded area is dull and I can't buff it out. I'm thinking that a new application of clear coat and a buff would do the trick.

Your help will be greatly appreciated. I'm sure that there's a way to fix this.
Please send a PM if you have words of wisdom.

Thanks,
CB

 

You're using a pc I'm assuming? I had to go over my scuff marks up to 10 times with menzerna intensive polish to get the scuff to disappear...

 

yes you can ... check out this post

S2KI Scary Point Chip Repair

 

He fixed his rock chips but his clear coat is also hosed.

 

I googled up some info on clearcoat or lack of...

The base coat is dull by nature. Clearcoat is what makes the paint shine.

How do you figure I burned through my clearcoat Ubetit?

 

I'm in about the same state as "thetz99". My repair area is on the top of the left fender and it is about a foot long and 4" wide. I suppose that I could buff it out with finer sandpaper, but I'm also quite aware that the clear coat is being stripped down. Couldn't I get ahold of some clear coat, spray it on and then blend that in with superfine sandpaper?
I contacted a local paint shop and they have "generic" clear coat.

AND is the Porter Cable buffer a must have?

Word?

CB

 

You can't do the buff out by hand...

You have to have an orbital to do the job correctly.

 

Wet sanding is a balancing act. You are aggressively removing/damaging your clear coat. Your car may have had enough clear coat on it that you didn't burn through to the base coat. I wouldn't advocate doing this again on your car. If you do end up going through the clear coat, your sandpaper or polishing pad will show signs of the base coat color. Keep in mind that it is possible to shine the basecoat up a little with polishing.

A clear coat is about 1-2mm thick and the urethane is fairly soft. Most people think a clear coat is hard like glass. Always use a block to wet sand as your fingers will apply pressure unevenly and you'll be left with ridges that will take forever to get out. Practice on a beater or a panel from the junk yard first.

 

Hey,
I want to thank you guys for your input. I really thought that I had hosed my stook's skin up.

Here's what I did to get out of this jam...

I acquired 1500, 2000, and 2500 grit wetordry sandpaper from my local autobody supply store.

I wet sanded lightly using the 1500 then graduated up to the 2500 - keeping it wet and extremely light pressure.

Then, I used "Ultra Cutting Creme Light" from Presta to get rid of the tiny swirls.

Finally, I put a coat of Meguiar's "Gold Class" clear coat liquid car wax.
Viola!

And, BTW, I did it all with elbow grease. I couldn't justify the buffer buckage at this time.

Dudes, I was so disturbed that I came home from work early to work on the car. Thank goodness it worked.

Thanks for all the help.


CB