the Official "NA Tuning" thread
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From: formerly versionJDM
Originally Posted by Silver9k,Sep 30 2006, 10:55 PM
I have the ACT PP/Comptech Flywheel, I know YOU didn't say this, but I don't know why people think that you gain power with these. Yes, it is a little less rotational weight in the drivetrain...but you don't really gain whp.
Now, if you are buying them for the purpose they were created...you will enjoy that mod, if not love it. I love the clutch modulation in my car, as well as the much better and faster ability to rev match.
As for your other two choices...both of those are coming in my future as well. Actually I am in the process of repainting my calipers to black so the rears wont look off with spoon fronts. I know there is a "matched" paint for the rears that is being sold for $90, but personally...I think black will probably be ok on the rears, and if I don't like it, I'll deal with it then.
Mugen SS rear wing, Mugen SS exhaust, Mugen SS rear bumper...I like
I'm not completely decided on my front lip yet though, either an Amuse, or an AP2 front bumper with something on it, maybe OEM, maybe something different. And on 17" LE28s either bronze or gunmetal.
Now, if you are buying them for the purpose they were created...you will enjoy that mod, if not love it. I love the clutch modulation in my car, as well as the much better and faster ability to rev match.
As for your other two choices...both of those are coming in my future as well. Actually I am in the process of repainting my calipers to black so the rears wont look off with spoon fronts. I know there is a "matched" paint for the rears that is being sold for $90, but personally...I think black will probably be ok on the rears, and if I don't like it, I'll deal with it then.
Mugen SS rear wing, Mugen SS exhaust, Mugen SS rear bumper...I like
I'm not completely decided on my front lip yet though, either an Amuse, or an AP2 front bumper with something on it, maybe OEM, maybe something different. And on 17" LE28s either bronze or gunmetal.
the following may sound dramatic...
i dont think i'll ever get the dyno sheet that says 230whp, and at this point i think i have bolted together a decently powerful NA s2k. i think i'll save up and get the looks dialed in then add some Vortec Boost to the equation. then we can all meet in the FI forum and start a "i want 330rwhp on 7lbs" thread.
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Originally Posted by Silver9k,Oct 1 2006, 01:04 AM
to actually get gains, any TB should be port matched to an intake manifold.
So to answer your question. No.
So to answer your question. No.
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From: formerly versionJDM
Originally Posted by wildcardtrd,Oct 1 2006, 06:03 AM
everybody's bailing 
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From: UCF Knights!
Originally Posted by versionJDM,Oct 1 2006, 01:08 PM
i am not bailing, i think i have actually accomplished my goal. 3 rwhp is a +/- type of thing.
Close enough only counts with horseshoes and handgrenades!
BTW, I won those ITB's
Look out porsche owners, your asses are MINE!! Hehehehehehehe!!!
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From: DFW, TX
Originally Posted by C U AT 9K,Oct 1 2006, 07:59 AM
lol ok. where the hell do i get my intake mani port matched? and hoe big can i go with the tb inlet before my intake "pipe" wont fit?
As far as bailing on 230whp N/A...ya I did do that quite a while ago, because, I decided that the amount of money required to do so is quite a bit. Especially if you want to smash that mark. What will get you there...we've already figured out.
(Insert name brand) 70mm Single Catback ~1000
(Insert name brand) 70mm Test pipe ~100
Preferably J's Header ~1300-1400
(Insert name brand) Intake 200-1000+
Tuning (EMS to VAFC) 1200-300
That right there will get about any S2k to around 230whp, however what we found after doing this, is that the car just isn't as comfortable to drive. I mean its loud, develops new rattles, and can attract attention you don't want.
Me, I had a 60 mm JIC single and testpipe (for sale by the way), the EMS, and an AEM V1 intake. I made about 220whp Had I had a 70mm and a J's header, you can bet I would have pushed over 230whp.
Now you guys can make even more, I do see 250 as feasible and still able to be driven daily (sort of).
Add some headwork, an bigger TB, Toda B spec Cams (with these you'll need different pistons for valve clearance, and I think they offer 11.8:1 and 13:1 compression...with our gas, I'd stay with the 11.8 and get a Spoon head gasket to be at about 12:1 compression, you'll also need Valve springs and retainers and Toda Cam gears for those to work...and while your already replacing the pistons, you might as well stroke out to a 2.2L if you aren't already, and put in stronger rods to still handle the 9000). At this point you've damn near rebuilt your car...it WILL NOT ACT STOCK, no matter what...sure you can drive it everyday, hopefully, but it will give you issues guarnteed. It'll also put you in the 250-260 N/A range, but at a price.
As for the original 230 with the pricing...figure an average of at least 3500 spent on getting you there. Now, that is only for 230whp (though it is N/A), for maybe an extra 500 you could have 270 whp F/I and be perfectly driveable and another 1000 (aftercooler) you'll be at 300, and another 2200 (for EMS and tuning, and smaller pulley, and injectors) you could probably be passing the 330-350 mark...and still thats only double the price of 230 N/A whp, and much more daily friendly. I think this is where we are all coming from, and what many others before us have figured out. It just makes more sense.
Eric
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From: formerly versionJDM
Originally Posted by Silver9k,Oct 1 2006, 11:09 AM
well silcon couplers luckily bend and strech...and since your N/A 70mm is probably as big as you would want or need to go. 66mm might be fine as well. And where to have it matched, well, to have it professionally done, any engine fabricators, or fabricator in general could do it. Unprofessionally...your friend with a dremel.
As far as bailing on 230whp N/A...ya I did do that quite a while ago, because, I decided that the amount of money required to do so is quite a bit. Especially if you want to smash that mark. What will get you there...we've already figured out.
(Insert name brand) 70mm Single Catback ~1000
(Insert name brand) 70mm Test pipe ~100
Preferably J's Header ~1300-1400
(Insert name brand) Intake 200-1000+
Tuning (EMS to VAFC) 1200-300
That right there will get about any S2k to around 230whp, however what we found after doing this, is that the car just isn't as comfortable to drive. I mean its loud, develops new rattles, and can attract attention you don't want.
Me, I had a 60 mm JIC single and testpipe (for sale by the way), the EMS, and an AEM V1 intake. I made about 220whp Had I had a 70mm and a J's header, you can bet I would have pushed over 230whp.
Now you guys can make even more, I do see 250 as feasible and still able to be driven daily (sort of).
Add some headwork, an bigger TB, Toda B spec Cams (with these you'll need different pistons for valve clearance, and I think they offer 11.8:1 and 13:1 compression...with our gas, I'd stay with the 11.8 and get a Spoon head gasket to be at about 12:1 compression, you'll also need Valve springs and retainers and Toda Cam gears for those to work...and while your already replacing the pistons, you might as well stroke out to a 2.2L if you aren't already, and put in stronger rods to still handle the 9000). At this point you've damn near rebuilt your car...it WILL NOT ACT STOCK, no matter what...sure you can drive it everyday, hopefully, but it will give you issues guarnteed. It'll also put you in the 250-260 N/A range, but at a price.
As for the original 230 with the pricing...figure an average of at least 3500 spent on getting you there. Now, that is only for 230whp (though it is N/A), for maybe an extra 500 you could have 270 whp F/I and be perfectly driveable and another 1000 (aftercooler) you'll be at 300, and another 2200 (for EMS and tuning, and smaller pulley, and injectors) you could probably be passing the 330-350 mark...and still thats only double the price of 230 N/A whp, and much more daily friendly. I think this is where we are all coming from, and what many others before us have figured out. It just makes more sense.
Eric
As far as bailing on 230whp N/A...ya I did do that quite a while ago, because, I decided that the amount of money required to do so is quite a bit. Especially if you want to smash that mark. What will get you there...we've already figured out.
(Insert name brand) 70mm Single Catback ~1000
(Insert name brand) 70mm Test pipe ~100
Preferably J's Header ~1300-1400
(Insert name brand) Intake 200-1000+
Tuning (EMS to VAFC) 1200-300
That right there will get about any S2k to around 230whp, however what we found after doing this, is that the car just isn't as comfortable to drive. I mean its loud, develops new rattles, and can attract attention you don't want.
Me, I had a 60 mm JIC single and testpipe (for sale by the way), the EMS, and an AEM V1 intake. I made about 220whp Had I had a 70mm and a J's header, you can bet I would have pushed over 230whp.
Now you guys can make even more, I do see 250 as feasible and still able to be driven daily (sort of).
Add some headwork, an bigger TB, Toda B spec Cams (with these you'll need different pistons for valve clearance, and I think they offer 11.8:1 and 13:1 compression...with our gas, I'd stay with the 11.8 and get a Spoon head gasket to be at about 12:1 compression, you'll also need Valve springs and retainers and Toda Cam gears for those to work...and while your already replacing the pistons, you might as well stroke out to a 2.2L if you aren't already, and put in stronger rods to still handle the 9000). At this point you've damn near rebuilt your car...it WILL NOT ACT STOCK, no matter what...sure you can drive it everyday, hopefully, but it will give you issues guarnteed. It'll also put you in the 250-260 N/A range, but at a price.
As for the original 230 with the pricing...figure an average of at least 3500 spent on getting you there. Now, that is only for 230whp (though it is N/A), for maybe an extra 500 you could have 270 whp F/I and be perfectly driveable and another 1000 (aftercooler) you'll be at 300, and another 2200 (for EMS and tuning, and smaller pulley, and injectors) you could probably be passing the 330-350 mark...and still thats only double the price of 230 N/A whp, and much more daily friendly. I think this is where we are all coming from, and what many others before us have figured out. It just makes more sense.
Eric
sort of. the main reason i want to go 230whp NA is because when i bought the s2000 i knew it was the king of NA 4 bangers, and even to this day it still is. there isnt a better NA 4 banger sports car on the planet. the F20 is simply amazing and is nothing sort of a C6 Z06 in 2.0 liter form. 120 horsepower per liter, simply awesome. so, i wanted to build on that. everyone i talked to said, forget it, its tuned from the factory and not 1 hp can be extracted from it. 
an i think i proved that. i am +30WHP and +19WTQ over stock. thats damn impressive on the car that cant make anymore power NA. i wanted fanboys to know that the F20 is every bit as mighty as the K serires and to me is the best production 4 banger made by Honda let alone any jap car maker. anything can be fast with boost, but not all cars can make the same power NA. i am not done with the NA thing, i say i dont want the 230rwhp dyno sheet but deep down i know i'll keep going till the dyno says 230.
time to toot my own horn. take a look at what my car made stock....
197whp 131rwtq..............13.98@100.8mph 2.1 60'
now,
227.4whp 146.9rwtq........13.62@104.3 2.1 60'
but like silver mentioned at its 227whp state the car is loud, had poor low speed drivablity. ya its great for your occasional street race, or the track and of course for dyno numbers but its not fun to drive everyday. hence why i put together a street setup to make the car easier drive to work. hence why i have started researching midrange power tuning and also boost.
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From: DFW, TX
Originally Posted by versionJDM,Oct 1 2006, 10:24 AM
sort of. the main reason i want to go 230whp NA is because when i bought the s2000 i knew it was the king of NA 4 bangers, and even to this day it still is. there isnt a better NA 4 banger sports car on the planet. the F20 is simply amazing and is nothing sort of a C6 Z06 in 2.0 liter form. 120 horsepower per liter, simply awesome. so, i wanted to build on that. everyone i talked to said, forget it, its tuned from the factory and not 1 hp can be extracted from it. an i think i proved that. i am +30WHP and +19WTQ over stock. thats damn impressive on the car that cant make anymore power NA. i wanted fanboys to know that the F20 is every bit as mighty as the K serires and to me is the best production 4 banger made by Honda let alone any jap car maker. anything can be fast with boost, but not all cars can make the same power NA. i am not done with the NA thing, i say i dont want the 230rwhp dyno sheet but deep down i know i'll keep going till the dyno says 230.
time to toot my own horn. take a look at what my car made stock....
197whp 131rwtq..............13.98@100.8mph 2.1 60'
now,
227.4whp 146.9rwtq........13.62@104.3 2.1 60'
but like silver mentioned at its 227whp state the car is loud, had poor low speed drivablity. ya its great for your occasional street race, or the track and of course for dyno numbers but its not fun to drive everyday. hence why i put together a street setup to make the car easier drive to work. hence why i have started researching midrange power tuning and also boost.
Right...
I also felt the need, not to prove others wrong, but to let everybody know, YES, Yes you can gain more hp from this car. And it isn't hard to do either. Like you said 30hp later and not to deep into it $ wise. The car does respond well to mods, and the engine is quite amazing for a 7 year old 2.0L.
IMO 'C U AT 9K' s setup is quite ideal. It is a nice sounding exhaust, with a matched header, and a good intake. I'm sure he is making decent power with it, and it is also something very nice to drive (assuming you have the R1 not R1000) and look at. It isn't the max hp, but it is a great balance between added hp and daily driveability. I'm sure with just those mods 210-215 might be what he is at, then with a testpipe and tuning 225 is probably within reach.
Also, personally I do want to get a header, as well as the mugen exhaust and a few other things, but, in reality...I will probably save up for boost first, since it will make the biggest impact in the shortest time.