sounds like a sweet setup. i guess after your FI'd that will mean that my AP1 will rule the west coast for NA hp.

2.0 powah!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

at least you can read Vac.


hahaha how many inches are you getting?

 

YOU ! haha


you cant read boost yet but you should be able to read vaccum...

 

your boost gauge should show the entire range of manifold pressure...from full vacuum to full boost...

 

he is saying that a lot of boost gauges read both boost and vacuum

 

 

anything under 0 psi/bar is Vac.

when your engine is idleing it should read Vac.

 

Your boost sensor is going to be plumbed into your intake manifold, at any of the existing vacuum ports. It could give a sh!t where the FPR is located...two totally independant pieces of equipment.

 

Hey all,

I've decided to take the plunge and join the 230rwhp club! I need some advice as to what exactly I should do. So far, my motor is bone stock except for an R1 dual Amuse exhaust which I've probably had for 3+ years.

Here's what I'm thinking:

Current:
Amuse R1 dual 63.5mm inner diameter

J's Intake
J's Header
Berk test pipe (need one around 63.5mm)

Now, should I get the J's Racing ECU that seems pretty much plug and play or should I go for a VAFC NEO + harness that will require a more custom installation and a bunch of dyno tuning time. My reservation with the VAFC is that I keep hearing that the ECU tunes out the gains given by the VAFC over time. Is this true?

Also I priced out an Amuse R1000, and man have those exhausts gone up in price since I bought mine. I don't really want to spend that much for an extra 3hp or so - I'd rather put that money towards 4:56 gears.

Anyways, thanks for the help, I'd like to get a baseline dyno of the car in the next couple of weeks . . .

 

Your choices are all good...the VAFC will allow you to tune more specifically to your car's needs...and the ecu only relearns the part-throttle settings. Your WOT setting are unaffected by the ecu, so you won't have to worry there.
Those mods may or may not get you there, but they will help. A lightened flyhweel and pulleys will help also, but 230 seems to be a little harder to attain than first suspected with just bolt-ons...especially for older AP1's like yours and mine.

Ideally, you'd need an AEM EMS or Greddy Emanage Ultimate, to advance your timing (big numbers there), and more than likely, some cams. There are only a handful up here that can honestly claim 230 rwhp, but there's a crapload of guys in here with very high 220's on little mods...it seems that 220's is easy to get to, but pushing it over to that next 10 spot requires a little more finesse. Go ahead and do a baseline to see where you are at. Considering you have an old AP1, do not be dissapointed if you only dyno in the 180's to start...I started at 186. The combination of j's hardware will help, but an ecu tune is absolutely critical on our older cars...honda's fuel maps are WAAAY rich on the 1st gens in the upper rpms...they leaned them out as the years went by and they acquired more data, but you'll probably see 15 rwhp out of just a vafc tune on that old '00 of yours.