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Like I promised here are some photos explaining what the tct is and what you should be expecting. Sorry if I ramble on a little bit. also the 2nd and 3rd pictures are borrowed.
Sorry I didn't get any pictures of the tct (timing chain tensioner) with the head on but this will educate you on what is creating the noise.
On the top of the engine you will notice two Orange pieces coming out of the timing case. Those are the Chain rails that keep the timing chain straight. The Rail closest to the passenger side of the car is the side the tct is on. The reason your hearing the noise. If in fact it is the tct, Is because the worm drive is getting hung up inside the tct housing. This is allowing the chain to have slack and or play. After talking to Billman250 the resident tct expert on s2ki apparently..... He says that the worm drive has some engineering flaws that Honda didn't feel warranted a total recal. Whether or not this is true I do not know. He does however have alot of backing with in the s2ki comm.
If you decide to fix the part instead of replacing it You will want to remove the two bolts from the side of the head. I believe they are 10mm. You may need to give the tct a nice whack to free it once unbolted. I used my trusty Pink rubber mallet. Also expect some oil to leak out from the hole. I would also suggest unplugging the vtec solenoid above the tct just to be safe. Here is the Oem Part number as well 14510-PCX-005 I would suggest that you price it out from hardtopguy.com as well as the dealer to get the best price here is the link from hardtopguy Hardtopguy.com TCT PART
If you decide to fix the part instead of replacing it this is what it will look like once it is pulled off the head. I will also recommend taking the cover off the tct housing and using a small flat head screwdriver pulling the little screw out. Match the threads from the screw with a bolt about 3 inches long,also get a nut and washer. You will then want to thread the bolt, nut and washer into the hole.Then gently tighten the bolt in the tct housing. it doesn't need to be tight, just enough to grab threads. This will compress the tct and hold it all together as it is being removed. Its very simple to put back in once it has been sandblasted.
For reference the third picture I have posted is a break down, here are the parts in order from Left to right: TCT housing, Spring,Worm Drive gear, Spring, plunger, Piston.
The Worm drive is the part that would need to be sand blasted down to be fixed. I have heard that replacing the tct as a whole may cure the problem temporarily.
Some have reported that the noise comes back within 10k miles.
If anyone has any adjustments to what I've said please do chime in. GOOD LUCK and if you want a hand feel free to pm me.
replace it every 10k? wouldn't that be the same thing as fixing it then?
I was reading that pushing the car on low oil is what triggers it alot of the time and as long as you are able to keep up on the maintenance, it seems to go longer with out having too many issues?? idk if there is any truth to that?
Tony, low oil will increase the chances of the TCT losing tension and making the noise. It's especially problematic on AP1 since they are more prone to oil consumption.
The only think I would add to Justin's post is that you may want to sandblast inside the piston as well (where the worm gear screws in to) so the two roughed up edges can grip eachother better. Just make sure you mask off the outside of the piston REALLY well (thick ducttape is good) so it doesnt get roughed up or it can catch in the housing and not extend properly.
Over time, the heat and the rotation of the gear polishes it smooth so it cannot stay tight as well. That's why people have started sandblasting it, since it reintroduces a texture for the gear to hold with.
I just stopped by a local sandblasting place today and they did the gear and inside the piston at no charge since it was so small and simple.
Tony, low oil will increase the chances of the TCT losing tension and making the noise. It's especially problematic on AP1 since they are more prone to oil consumption.
The only think I would add to Justin's post is that you may want to sandblast inside the piston as well (where the worm gear screws in to) so the two roughed up edges can grip eachother better. Just make sure you mask off the outside of the piston REALLY well (thick ducttape is good) so it doesnt get roughed up or it can catch in the housing and not extend properly.
Over time, the heat and the rotation of the gear polishes it smooth so it cannot stay tight as well. That's why people have started sandblasting it, since it reintroduces a texture for the gear to hold with.
I just stopped by a local sandblasting place today and they did the gear and inside the piston at no charge since it was so small and simple.
Thanks for the help! what shop did you take it into?
Took it to a local powdercoating place called ARMORdillo.
Guy was really nice. All you have to do now is come to Bend to get it done
If you were up for the trip, I can get my spare one done and reassembled and then swap it out for you, but I dont know if it'd be worth the drive...
Because of all this talk of TCT and the fact that mine was starting to make noise (again) I decided to go ahead and swap it all out this evening. 5 minutes tops.
I took a few phone pics so you can kind of see how simple it is:
TCT mounted just above the oil filter
TCT removed (two 10mm bolts)
Access screw (to pull the retainer pin) - removes with an 8mm Allen
Insert the new TCT, tighten down the bolts and see the pin inside the access hole. Grip with needle nose pliers and pull
-
You'll hear it snap back into place. Replace screw and you're done. Best to make sure your oil is topped off before starting the car.
This also shows my old TCT worm gear. Even though you can see the scuff marks from when I sanded it by hand, it's been polished pretty smooth and shiny:
This is my replacement worm after being sandblasted:
Little far of a drive
Hopefully I will get this figured out by next week..
Ill check local sandblasting places around the area hopefully they are as nice over here
Thanks again Aaron for the quick hand! Always awsome to learn new tricks, glad I got it taken care of, I sounded like a diesel truck when I was stopped at lights Id have to pretend it wasnt me and look staight forward and drive off
Pretty simple it seemed but worth the nice drive!