Actually tried both of those grills for the e8a solution and could not make either work and still look good.

This one

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=260-441

Will work on the eD Kv 10" sub with no problem.

 

yup -- that's my fear William... i honestly don't think the Tsunami one is going to work right... or even if it does, look like anything more than crap.

 

OK - all broken in and tested. I must say that it hits quite hard and sounds pretty darn good.

I had my brother abuse it for the last couple of days while I was out of town.

Would be willing to ship it to Jim, Philip or ??? for a comparative review. Just need to be able to give it ~300Wrms @ 2ohms.

 

i've got 450 @ 2 ohms on hand... but i could easily throttle it back (looks like it's rated to 500 Wrms). i'd be more than willing to try it out.

are we talking driver's side or passenger's side? (not that it really matters, but to get a couple day's impression on it, i'd have to pull my cargo net for driver's side.)

 

I need some advice.... I just hung up the phone with Soundstream.

The recommendation is to run my Kappa Perfect 6.1s at 4 ohms on two channels as would be expected.

Furthermore, Karl (Soundstream Engineer) recommends I run a sub-woffer with (2)-2 ohm voice coils as a 4 ohm load (series) to the amp bridged output as 500 X 1 instead of running a left channel to a 2 ohm load along with a right channel 2 ohm load independently.

The VGA 500.4 is rated 125 x 4 into 4 ohm, 250 x 4 into 2 ohm, or 500 x 2 bridged into 4 ohm.

Karl was pretty short with me, I guess it may be closing time on the West coast.

Sorry Soundstream, but based upon his conversation, I trust the opinions of this thread more than theirs at this time....

What I do not know (Karl suggested he does not do 'Competition Setups' (yea me, farmboy in Ohio... )) is if the Sub, Amp or Sound Quality Produced will be different based upon the method of wiring. I have a clue about series / parallel etc, but no experience with the amp, sound quality, performance relationship, if it even exists.

This really is my first experience with car audio even though we built electrovoice eliminators, klipsch(Spelling?) horn etc. knockoffs as a kid for regional high school dance events. (We had a cool math teacher who helped us at the time.)

Will the eD work with my constraints or do I need to select a different sub configuration to be in the game?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Keith

 

Keith,

I have the same exact amp in my car, first off its an awesome amp. I have my front two channels running to my Focal Utopia's. Now to your question. From what I understand, its better to run 500 watts to a dual voice coil sub in either series or parallel configuration instead of running 250 watts to each voice coil separately. Now I might be wrong, but from what I understand the input from each channel will almost never be balanced creating an imbalance in the subwoofer. Thats what I have been told. Now there are a couple running their subs that same way, each voice coil getting their own channel from the amp. I myself am also going to run my Alphasonik 10 inch sub this way, running it in stereo. Our ampsis not 2 ohm stable when bridged. The experts can chime in here to see if you can run it in series or paralle another way. I dont know much about the different wiring methods and the corresponding ohm ratings they create. At least with the ED sub you have a choice of 2ohm or 4 ohm versions.

 

The eD K10 will work fine. They have a Dual 2 ohm voice coil version that when wired in series will provide you with a 4 ohm load to the amps bridged channel.

 

Hey man - PM me a number with time to call.

FYI - It is a driver side enclosure

 

generally speaking -- i would agree with Karl. taking a 2 ohm DVC and running it in stereo (ie. left = 1 coil, right = 1 coil) isn't the preferred method of powering a DVC sub. bridging your sub mono and running the coils in series for a 4 ohm mono load is a better plan, is better for the sub, and for the amp. you should have no power difference at the sub at all.

there is some substance in this argument... while it isn't really right, it's not so wrong as to be worth correcting at 2:45 am.

if you have a non-2 ohm stable amp, and a 4 ohm DVC sub - your options are pretty poor. sorry. you can either wire it parallel, and run it 2 ohms, and just hope your amp is under rated and can actually handle the 2 ohm load (it will run hot), or you can wire it for 8 ohms (series) and get virtually no power to the sub because the resistance is too high. wiring it in stereo is just about your only option, and even then you'll only be using about 1/2 what the average amp can produce. (ie, you'll be getting 250 total Wrms to the sub vs the 500 Wrms possible) sucks, but it's the way the math works.

William -- since Jim has had several various combos of subs in your box, and other subs -- if he's interested we might want to put heads together. most of what i have to compare to is the e8a in the S, and a fairly large vareity other subs in various cars i've owned or setup. PM sent.


Jim -- is Karl our man that we were dealing with? name sounds familiar....

 

I can testify for our SS Van gogh, that if you run the sub parrallel and drop it down to 2 ohms bridged, the amp shuts off. I tried running my alphasonik 8inch dvc (4 ohm) in parallel and the amp would just cut off once you pushed the volume up.