A spare PRB ecu that needs to be converted? Meh, im just going to wire up an AEM failsafe gage and call it a day. Hondata could code for wideband lean cut from the inputs of kpro 3 and that would make us all very happy. But will never happen so AEM took action themselves ^^ AEM for listening to your customers and delivering!

 

JustinC - I just spoke to AEM about the failsafe and they said the best sport to wire it in was the lowside ground on Kpro, do you have a pinout or know where this lowside ground on kpro is? How does Kpro handle a lean situation with lean cut with the modification or wideband feed back as described in this thread?

I didnt want to go with spark cut for fear of fuel wash and the pump was questionable...

 

Since no one has an effing clue, hopefully Hondata can chime in and give us the proper wire location

http://hondata.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=14636

 

Hondata said this http://hondata.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=14636 can anyone translate? Does the lowside ground tap into the nitrous control and help to trigger a cut? They said remove all fuel but if you are already hitting a lean spot, isnt that the last thing you would want to do?

 

Looking at Kpro software, you would wire it into one of the Nitrous trigers- look under "nitrous 1" tab in parameters- like pin E16. Make sure it's enabled. Under the same tab, there is a "fuel & ignition" mini-tab that you can change fuel and timing. I'm guessing you would make all values be "-10000" or something to remove all fuel.

Now should you do this? Theoreticlly, it will remove ALL fuel, so there would be no detonation (no fuel) and the car would stall. I would imagine this would be just like being under full boost, and turning off the injectors.

Not the best option... You would get the same effect if you wired the AEM output to a relay that killed the 12v to all the injectors...

 

removing all fuel if u hit a lean spot is fine. Its just like hitting fuel cut, but you could also set it to retard ignition somewhat which would also reduce chance of detonation. But if its getting that lean or if ur getting detonation, there something else wrong in the map.

 

So like hondata said, its perfectly ok to wire it in a nitrous pin to remove all fuel once a lean condition is detected? How does the OEM system cut you, like if you try to vtec if the car is not warmed up enough.

 

Well I guess I'll bring this thread back from the dead...

I wired my setup per the original diagram on first page of the thread, and it's been trouble free for over three years and about 12,000 miles. Today after driving to work letting the car sit for about 3 hours then restarting the CEL came on after about 45 seconds. There was no change in drivability so I continued to my destination (2 mi), then shut her down...sat again for about 15 min then restarted, again CEL returned after about the same amount of time, so I cruised back to the shop and scanned the codes, came up with P1166 A/F sensor heater circuit malfunction.

I'd remembered seeing something in this thread about the jumper board having a trace geting overloaded and overheating, so I decided just to pull the ECU and have a look. After removing the top cover I found a failure almost identical to that posted by Freezingcoffee back in June of 2011 (page 8), where the D8 trace has heat damage. I'll post pics tomorrow of the failure and the repair jumper that I'm going to add between RSX A1 and S2K D8. Not 100% sure that is the cause of the code as I didn't do any diagnosis other than inspecting the ECU but it's obviously damaged so it seems likely. Hopefully the jumper will do the trick!


Cliff notes and reference data...

-P1166, other than the code the car runs perfect
-Failure of D8 (S2000) Trace on top of jumper board due to over current/overheating
-Rev 6 jumper board (K-Pro purchased in late 2009)
-Wired with diagram on page 1 since brand new
-Running software version 1.4.x or 1.5.x (can't remember, it's been over 2 years since making any changes to the .cal and over a year since even connecting lol)

 

It's also possible the O2 sensor just died. I only got 15k out of my first one.

 

Alright, so here's the photo of the failed trace at S2K D8...




I tested continuity between the pin that interacts with the harness at D8 and the bottom of the ECU where RSX pin A1 comes through the board and found a totally open circuit.

I added a jumper wire between the two locations as seen below...







After reinstalling the ECU the car fired right up and seems to be good so far. I let her idle for about 5 minutes and connected to the ECU to watch AFR's and trims, everything seems to be in order and the code has not returned. The weather is a little on the crappy side for my taste and I forgot to bring my socket set home to bolt the ECU back in position for a test drive...but everything looks good so far.