Another AEM FIC user
Originally Posted by SuzukaBlueAP2,Jun 15 2009, 04:34 PM
random question...
what are all of your a/f ratios at an idle when warmed up?
My gauge reads around 14.7:1
what are all of your a/f ratios at an idle when warmed up?
My gauge reads around 14.7:1
I'm in the middle of tunning an F/IC as well. Having issues with closed loop operation and 750cc injectors. Very Rich.
When tuning, I suggest you pull the ECU fuse and clear the ECU before starting which will erase your Short Term and Long Term fuel trims. You should be watching your STFT via a scan tool while tuning with the goal of minimizing STFT's. Sounds like you are tuning your fuel map against the STFT and when you restart, the ECU starts re-calibrating.
Are any of you using the O2 map?
When tuning, I suggest you pull the ECU fuse and clear the ECU before starting which will erase your Short Term and Long Term fuel trims. You should be watching your STFT via a scan tool while tuning with the goal of minimizing STFT's. Sounds like you are tuning your fuel map against the STFT and when you restart, the ECU starts re-calibrating.
Are any of you using the O2 map?
Here is what I dont get how do you tune your car if you cant tune against them? I have 550cc injectors obviously out of boost its wayyyy rich so if I leave my map at 0 will the factory ecu try to get my a/f back to where it should be and then the little bit it cant do I do with the fic or will the ecu never learn that? Also are you suggesting I leave the fuse out for the ecu or just when I start tuning for the first time?
And no I am not using the o2 map. It seems to be the exact same as the fuel map
And no I am not using the o2 map. It seems to be the exact same as the fuel map
The O2 map is not the same as the fuel map. The O2 map is used to alter the stock oxygen sensor reading to trick the ECU into running richer in conditions of closed loop ECU control and boost so you aren't running 14.7 in boost.
The way tuning with the FIC should work is:
-reset your ECU before tuning so it has no LTFT's already set.
-Not sure if the STFT's work with the fuse out. If it does, then this is probably the best way to tune so you aren't fighting against changing LTFT's which I believe are not active with the fuse out.
-start with a best guess base map and tweak it until your STFT's are close to zero. If the STFT's are close to zero in closed loop, then the ECU won't change you calibration by adding LTFT's.
That being said, the FIC is not responding accordingly for me at this point.
The way tuning with the FIC should work is:
-reset your ECU before tuning so it has no LTFT's already set.
-Not sure if the STFT's work with the fuse out. If it does, then this is probably the best way to tune so you aren't fighting against changing LTFT's which I believe are not active with the fuse out.
-start with a best guess base map and tweak it until your STFT's are close to zero. If the STFT's are close to zero in closed loop, then the ECU won't change you calibration by adding LTFT's.
That being said, the FIC is not responding accordingly for me at this point.
Well I tried something interesting. I changed all cells out of boost to 0 except for the cell where it idles. I then reset the ecu. I started it up it idled normal pulled away and it was obviously rich but not as much as I thought it would be. After a few minutes of driving around it began to lean itself out and drive like it should. At wot it got super rich until 6k and then went to 12.0 under boost. I did that a few times and the car stopped being so rich before boost but kept the a/f of 12 in boost. There are a few small lean spots that pop up every now and then so we will see what happens. I didnt expect that at all.
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