BRP/SOT Hotside SC Install
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 3,214
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From: Huntsville, AL
I have never tested them first hand so I can not speak to the the actual gains/benefits.
There are some dynos that show gains ( more so for the FI application) then for the NA crowd. The main question is the expected gains worth the cost?
The advantage/goal of a multi spark/ hotter spark is to make sure the fuel air mixture is ignited correctly and ensure that the Air fuel mixture is burned in the most efficient manner possible.
A more efficient burn and a very precise ignition time should lead to better performance.
The Okada's would help a meth setup work better.
A Water meth setup increases the OCT rating of the fuel.
Higher OCT fuel is harder to ignite so a hotter spark would be beneficial there.
There are some dynos that show gains ( more so for the FI application) then for the NA crowd. The main question is the expected gains worth the cost?
The advantage/goal of a multi spark/ hotter spark is to make sure the fuel air mixture is ignited correctly and ensure that the Air fuel mixture is burned in the most efficient manner possible.
A more efficient burn and a very precise ignition time should lead to better performance.
The Okada's would help a meth setup work better.
A Water meth setup increases the OCT rating of the fuel.
Higher OCT fuel is harder to ignite so a hotter spark would be beneficial there.
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 5,645
Likes: 8
From: Los Angeles, CA
I say since you have the option then why not go with the okada coils. based off the result for the FI guys it would probably be a benefit to you.
I do have a question: I know both the ap1, and ap2 dynoes are at about 6.5psi or so, but can we increase the boost? I remember reading that spinning the blower at 18,000 may be a good limit to stop at, but how much boost can we go before going over that?
Man this kit, with a custom header and 3" exhaust set-up. Maybe a v-mount set up, and possible a meth kit would be ridiculous! Which is what I'd like to do, and is why I'm so eager to see one for my year.
I do have a question: I know both the ap1, and ap2 dynoes are at about 6.5psi or so, but can we increase the boost? I remember reading that spinning the blower at 18,000 may be a good limit to stop at, but how much boost can we go before going over that?
Man this kit, with a custom header and 3" exhaust set-up. Maybe a v-mount set up, and possible a meth kit would be ridiculous! Which is what I'd like to do, and is why I'm so eager to see one for my year.
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 3,214
Likes: 32
From: Huntsville, AL
but can we increase the boost?
18,000 is the manufactures suggested
limitbut that has never stopped people from over spinning the blowers.
The miata guys have been doing it for years; places like Big Gulp.
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 11,950
Likes: 474
From: MAHT-O-MEDI
Originally Posted by vader1,Oct 21 2008, 10:13 AM
Mark,
I was going to get the U-tune because I have the EMU and boomslang harness. Did the harness require any modification for the lowering of VTEC in the basemap and will instructions be availible to do so for those that have emu installed already?
Don't know if you saw this question. WIll I need to modify my Boomslang for the VTEC changeover and will a UTUNE instructions show how?
John
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Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Gap local
Originally Posted by MugenRioS2k,Aug 12 2008, 01:09 AM
it can
Just need a DBW car that is willing to let SOT have there car for a couple of weeks so they can integrate the DBW components into the 74mm Billet Throttle body.
Since there is no one local to me that has spoken up with a DBW car I do not have a DBW car to build a basemap with.
The Fueling/Timing should be the close/same but just wanted to make sure that the DBW tunning is incorporated correctly into the tunning aspect of things.
Remember on the AP2 it was necessary to tune a TPS voltage ramp smiler to what greddy does on their AP2 turbo setup.
The Voltage ramp will still apply on the DBW AP2 unless some one goes with a full standalone or Kpro.
So even once SOT gets a DBW test car the kit will still most likely come only as a tuner kit version for the DBW cars or full kit with just timing and fueling maps but everything else left open for your tuner. . That is unless someone is willing to come to Huntsville so I can build a full base map on the dyno ( Dyno Dynamics)
Just need a DBW car that is willing to let SOT have there car for a couple of weeks so they can integrate the DBW components into the 74mm Billet Throttle body.
Since there is no one local to me that has spoken up with a DBW car I do not have a DBW car to build a basemap with.
The Fueling/Timing should be the close/same but just wanted to make sure that the DBW tunning is incorporated correctly into the tunning aspect of things.
Remember on the AP2 it was necessary to tune a TPS voltage ramp smiler to what greddy does on their AP2 turbo setup.
The Voltage ramp will still apply on the DBW AP2 unless some one goes with a full standalone or Kpro.
So even once SOT gets a DBW test car the kit will still most likely come only as a tuner kit version for the DBW cars or full kit with just timing and fueling maps but everything else left open for your tuner. . That is unless someone is willing to come to Huntsville so I can build a full base map on the dyno ( Dyno Dynamics)
Is SOT still in need of an 06+ test mule? If so, I'm in Knoxville and would be glad to drop off my car in Greenville, SC for as long as they need it for the TB fab and test fitting, if it will insure us MY06+ guys an FI option. Would you rather have the car first to do the map build before the car were to go to SOT?
PM and let me know.
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 5,645
Likes: 8
From: Los Angeles, CA
I'm curious of what the risks are for those that may wish to run more boost, and spin the blower far beyond the "safe" zone?
Because of the lack of boost upgrades available this systems only drawback from others may be that you can't really build the bottom end for boost with lower comp ratio. Since people do this to run higher boost numbers, it would not be necessary for this kit since those numbers can't be had.
Have you considering trying a Front mount intercooler?
Because of the lack of boost upgrades available this systems only drawback from others may be that you can't really build the bottom end for boost with lower comp ratio. Since people do this to run higher boost numbers, it would not be necessary for this kit since those numbers can't be had.
Have you considering trying a Front mount intercooler?
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 3,214
Likes: 32
From: Huntsville, AL
A A2A was tried by SOT. They did not see the cooling of IATs that they wanted.
There original solution for the A2A was placed behind the A/C core with the Radiator spaced backward to make room for the A2A between the A/C core and the radiator.
The reason for trying to place the A2A in that location was to reduce throttle volume and prevent possible idle drop that some of the early Miata had with a A2A roots setup.
Since our motors rev so hi and take in so much air the pressure/flow loss through the A2A was deemed unacceptable.
On a race setup a A2A would work but a slightly larger crank pulley would be necessary in order to make up for the loss in the A2A.
However by going up to the larger crank pulley in order to maintain the same psi/flow there would be additional heat generated in the air charge.
So there is more to your question then let just use a A2A.
The A2W is working better then expected and has a bunch of head room.
There are boost upgrades ( more to the point power upgrades)
126mm Crank ( Standard 300-330whp and 200-220wtq 5.5-6.5 psi)
135mm Crank 330-350whp 220-240wtq at 7.5-8 psi< educated guess with supporting exhaust
142mm Crank 350-375whp 240-255wtq a 8-10psi< educated guess with supporting exhaust
Moss style MP62 outlet manifold adds about 5.5% increases across the board ( Untested Stand by)
There original solution for the A2A was placed behind the A/C core with the Radiator spaced backward to make room for the A2A between the A/C core and the radiator.
The reason for trying to place the A2A in that location was to reduce throttle volume and prevent possible idle drop that some of the early Miata had with a A2A roots setup.
Since our motors rev so hi and take in so much air the pressure/flow loss through the A2A was deemed unacceptable.
On a race setup a A2A would work but a slightly larger crank pulley would be necessary in order to make up for the loss in the A2A.
However by going up to the larger crank pulley in order to maintain the same psi/flow there would be additional heat generated in the air charge.
So there is more to your question then let just use a A2A.
The A2W is working better then expected and has a bunch of head room.
There are boost upgrades ( more to the point power upgrades)
126mm Crank ( Standard 300-330whp and 200-220wtq 5.5-6.5 psi)
135mm Crank 330-350whp 220-240wtq at 7.5-8 psi< educated guess with supporting exhaust
142mm Crank 350-375whp 240-255wtq a 8-10psi< educated guess with supporting exhaust
Moss style MP62 outlet manifold adds about 5.5% increases across the board ( Untested Stand by)