i highly recommend removing the turbo to adjust the wastegate. I've tried doing this while the turbo is on the car and it's a pain in the but even with my small asian hands.

First you need to cram a wrench in there to loosen the nut at the end of the wastegate arm, then you need to somehow pry the C clip holding the arm onto the wastegate door. Putting the c clip back on is just as hard as removing it. The space between the block and the turbo is VERY tight. If you are a VERY patient person, then go for it, it can be done......but i get frustrated a lot so if i ever had to do this again, i would keep my blood pressure from rising and just remove the turbo. It's actually not very hard to do anyway. I usually just bend the AC lines back and remove the turbo/manifold in one piece. This way, you don't need to remove the oil filter relocation kit.

 

Chris if u dont mind me asking how long does it take for you to pull the turbo your way? due to my time restraints i have not had time to work on my car, so i recently paid a shop to pull my turbo/port wg/adjust arm etc.....they did take off oil filter relocation kit etc etc and said it was a pain in the ass. it sounds like a much faster procedure if you just take off the 7 (guess) manifold bolts and 4 DP bolts.

btw: my for the porting and initial wg arm adjustment is to run my 80mm test pipe with my 80mm exhaust.

 

Just pull the feed, charge, and down pipe. Remove the nuts that hold the manifold to the head, the feed and return oil lines, and that should be it. It's tight, but it should come out as one piece. I understand their frustration if they pulled the oil relocater. That was the hardest part in my opinion. Let us know how the porting works out for you. I'd like to see some free flowing exhaust on this kit. Keep your stock cat nearby though.

 

i've done it in a couple of hours. All you have to do is remove the downpipe, disconnect the oil return from the turbo (leave the bottom connected to the oil pan and just set aside), disconnect suction and compression pipes from the turbo, disconnect the oil feed line form the turbo, then unbolt the manifold. Bend the ac lines back and remove the turbo from above. I've done this about 5 times now. Of course the more you do it, the easier it is. I've had shops say this would take 5 hours......so it depends on who you go to.

I do it this way because like most people, i hate to mess with the oil relocation kit. Plus doing it my way, you don't have to drain oil and there's no oil mess whatsoever. Much easier.

 

what are you people adjusting on the WG arm?

 

my wg is ported and the shop adjusted the arm. with a 70mm HFC i am not getting more than 6lbs.

the turbo spools slow right now so im assuming they really loosened the WG arm (to my knowledge they did not adjust to to a certain PSI crack pressure). my goal is to throw on the 80mm TP and see what boost levels i get, then go in and adjust the wg arm accordingly. i think the greddy kit spools really quickly out of box, and im hoping that the 80mm TP will be a nice compromise between not chocking uptop like you do with the OEM cat and still spooling quick enough.

i will update as i find info, im currently having various other issues with my car id like to address. im just really happy that right now my car gets 6lbs with 70mm HFC when before it was shooting up to 12 with oem cat. i have high hopes

 

hmmmmmmmm, I am very interested, is it a very delicate thing to do? I wouldnt know how much to tell someone to port the wastegate, and yes i dont want to lose the quick spool up I have now

 

i had AMS port my WG. the guy who tuned my car there is very knowledgable so he directed the fab dept what to do and then adjusted the WG before it left the shop. 70 bucks well spent IMO.

now just gotta install the TP and dial things in.

 

yea, I dunno what to do, off the line I love the car as is, but on the highway, once it hits VTEC, though its making 300HP to the wheels it always stutters for a split second, much like it doenst know what do do with all of that extra air when in VTEC, it feels like it gets bottled up in the cat, I dunno what to do about it...............



How much would I have to Port the Wastegate to prevent Boost creep if I were to go to a 70mm Test pipe?

 

I am no expert but it's the hole under the flapper that needs to be made larger. I think a little goes a long way you just can't make the WG hole larger than the flapper but since the Knowlege guy has done it it should work fine. This should help with the boost creep problem, however I am unsure how it will affect over all performance.