S2000 Forced Induction S2000 Turbocharging and S2000 supercharging, for that extra kick.

Greddy Turbo Questions thread....

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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 09:23 PM
  #231  
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Which fuse do you have to pull (location and number) to let the car crank but not start?

Also, Can someone snap a quick pic of where exactly they tapped into their vac/boost line for their boost gauge?

My BOV requires a boost only line, and recommends you take it right off the wastegate. It is the line that comes out of the little wastegate nipple?
Old Mar 18, 2008 | 09:32 PM
  #232  
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u can just unclip the injectors if you are trying to get oil pressure. Just make sure you don't run the starter too long. Let it cool down between crankings.
Old Mar 18, 2008 | 09:55 PM
  #233  
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Oh, ok. So crank for ten seconds, cool for a minute, that should be ok?
Old Mar 18, 2008 | 09:59 PM
  #234  
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Originally Posted by NFRs2000NYC,Mar 18 2008, 09:55 PM
Oh, ok. So crank for ten seconds, cool for a minute, that should be ok?
Dave, call me - cell phone in PM
Old Mar 18, 2008 | 10:06 PM
  #235  
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Originally Posted by NFRs2000NYC,Mar 18 2008, 10:55 PM
Oh, ok. So crank for ten seconds, cool for a minute, that should be ok?
yeah, you're supposed to crank until the oil light goes off....but sometimes that takes a long time. So use your best judgement when to actually start the car. I cranked one like 4 times in 15 sec intervals and the light still didn't go off, so i just started it. Didn't want to wear the starter out.
Old Mar 19, 2008 | 07:25 AM
  #236  
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Originally Posted by Chris_Lum,Mar 18 2008, 09:32 PM
u can just unclip the injectors if you are trying to get oil pressure. Just make sure you don't run the starter too long. Let it cool down between crankings.
Isn't it better to crank it with the coils unplugged instead of the injectors? this way you're not cranking on dry sleeves....
Old Mar 19, 2008 | 08:00 AM
  #237  
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my oil light was only on for 1 craking...
Old Mar 23, 2008 | 12:32 PM
  #238  
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bump
Old Mar 23, 2008 | 02:09 PM
  #239  
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Starting my install on Thursday. I ordered a lot of replacement parts to replace what in my experience with the Greddy kits is the weakpoint.


1)Thicker couplers, red of course.

2)Aluminum t-fittings. On my friends RSX, all the supplied plastic t-fittings disintegrated into powder in about 5000 miles.

3)Aluminum vacuum block

4)K&N filter

5)T bolt clamps to replace hose clamps

6)AEM UEGO

Should at least look pretty under the hood. I'll post pics when installed.

Since this is a question thread, here is one more.

I pride myself on having a spotless car. That includes the undercarriage and motor bay. I wash my motor bay once every month or two. Now, is it safe getting the turbo wet assuming it's bone cold when I wash it, and don't drive until everything dries up? It should be sealed, so I don't see a problem with water getting in. However, it is a piece of iron, so I assume it will rust like crazy. Better that I cover it up right?
Old Mar 23, 2008 | 02:22 PM
  #240  
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Originally Posted by NFRs2000NYC,Mar 23 2008, 05:09 PM
I pride myself on having a spotless car. That includes the undercarriage and motor bay. I wash my motor bay once every month or two. Now, is it safe getting the turbo wet assuming it's bone cold when I wash it, and don't drive until everything dries up? It should be sealed, so I don't see a problem with water getting in. However, it is a piece of iron, so I assume it will rust like crazy. Better that I cover it up right?
Its going to get wet one way or another might as well do it trying to make it clean


It should be fine, surprisingly my manifold / turbine are relativity rust free considering I have vents directly over them.



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