Yes to clock the compressor side you just need to take off the snap ring and reposition it.

 

Thanks chris. What do you suggest on the wastegate tab since the other holes aren't threaded?

 

mr aqua i have the same problem with the tru boost. boost with come on then let off then come on etc.... its deff a tru boost issue though becuase if you run it on OFF and just run off the WG it holds

 

EDIT: Forget all that.

My car does exactly as Mr. Aquas. It really is perplexing why it acts like that. I wonder if the WG is just too fast. It seems like when I punch it, it cuts down on the fluctuation.

What does everyones TB say at startup? Mine says UO4. Maybe there are different versions of the firmware.

 

I have a manual Boost controller, the way it is set, it Spikes at 10psi, then sometimes stays around 9, or sometimes 8, or sometimes just under 10, very frustrating.

 

The AEM forum is saying that the Spr setting is to high, and to keep going lower until it goes away. All the Spr setting does is tell the TB when to start cycling the solenoid.

AEM Forum: "The number you input for spring pressure or wastegate crack pressure is when the wastegate BEGINS to open. You typically want to set up your duty cycle for the desired boost level first while the spring pressure is at 1psi. After you have your duty cycle dialed in, raise the spring pressure 1psi at a time until you get boost spike, then back it down to the previous number. Hope this helps."

 

I set my TruBoost according to the AEM forum like you are showing SgtB. I ended up with spr 5 and 10% duty to get 9.7psi when its cold out and 9.1psi in warmer weather. Mine is incredibly solid and repeatable, I mean within .2psi . I have a Berk HFC and dual 2.5" Dynomax Ultraflow mufflers, but the rest is "stock".

My TB shows "U04" then switches to "A10" (program A, 10%) on startup.

 

Thanks for the tip. I'm going set mine back up in a few.

Unrelated: We need a build logs section like team-integra. It's so hard to compare setups here.

 

install complete today! after a whole day's worth of driving and a couple of false alarms, i have found so far only one problem...

one of the injectors o rings has broken. you know the 2 o rings on the bottom of the injectors (black ones) - yea the TOP one of one of those is broken it seems. is that why there are 2, just in case? i guess i should replace it... does anybody know the sizes of these o rings?

 

Sorry to hear that, hopefully you can get a replacement O-ring.

For others, so you don't have this problem, use vaseline to lightly grease the O rings during install.