S2000 Forced Induction S2000 Turbocharging and S2000 supercharging, for that extra kick.

Greddy Turbo Questions thread....

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Old May 15, 2008 | 11:55 PM
  #641  
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anyone know if the turbo can be clocked? I kinda want it pointing down. I know it's IWG'd so I'd have to make a bracket for the WG.

Thanks folks
Old May 16, 2008 | 09:28 AM
  #642  
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Yes, it's a vband so it will clock easy. You plan on replacing the charge pipe?
Old May 16, 2008 | 09:36 AM
  #643  
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Originally Posted by SgtB,May 16 2008, 10:28 AM
Yes, it's a vband so it will clock easy. You plan on replacing the charge pipe?
I'm gonna fab one up. Do I have to worry about the oil feed/return line?

Can't I just clock the cold side snail? Looks like there is a snap ring I can loosen and clock it?
Old May 16, 2008 | 09:48 AM
  #644  
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Originally Posted by NFRs2000NYC,May 13 2008, 12:26 PM
Keep me posted on how you do this...I think the stock dummy light is the best to see the warning.
just got it done; pics over the weekend
Old May 16, 2008 | 09:51 AM
  #645  
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I lost to a 4-door 335 I from a 80mph roll . I thought I would easily kill him, so I let him jump first BIGTIME MISTAKE
Old May 16, 2008 | 10:52 AM
  #646  
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Originally Posted by JoeyBalls,May 16 2008, 01:51 PM
I lost to a 4-door 335 I from a 80mph roll . I thought I would easily kill him, so I let him jump first BIGTIME MISTAKE
335s are quick; some are modified too! they reach full boost right below 2k rpms
Old May 16, 2008 | 01:15 PM
  #647  
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Yeah his car may weigh 600 lbs more than yours but he has about 90 ft/lbs of torque on you at that point too. (335i make 300 ft/lbs of torque from 1400-5000 RPM)
You are dropping off on your torque at the top end where his twin turbo setup keeps his nice and flat upto 6000 rpm.
The higher you rev the broader the difference is *nod* If you are going to run on the topside alot you may get some help from guys on the board for a upgrade to the turbo that is spec'd in the kit.
I am sure that there is a Bolt-on upgrade to your turbo that will move that nice big fat lump of torque you have further on up to give you more topside HP!
Old May 16, 2008 | 06:23 PM
  #648  
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I have the AEM tru boost controller. My goal is to hit 10 psi as soon as possible and hold it to redline. I set the originally spring rate on the tru-boost to 8psi with 10 gain (lowest it will go) and was seeing much more than 10 psi. So I started play around with the settings and set the spring rate at 6psi with a gain of 35. It feels pretty good but it seems like the boost level go up and down when I punch it. At least that's what the gauge is telling me. The peak boost I hit is pretty close to 10 psi. But I want to hit 10 psi as soon as possible and hold right at 10 till 9k. Right now it starts low and builds with the RPM.

I've also tried increasing the spring rate to 7 psi and use 10 as the gain and the results were that I would hit 10 psi but it would again fluctuate to redline. Whats the difference between using a higher spring rate and lower gain and a lower spring rate and a higher gain? Any advantages either way if the peak is still around 10 psi?

With the higher spring rate when I punch it I can feel the car back off and back on again as it opens and closes the wastegate to let the pressure escape, kind of annoying. BTW I got the car tuned with out using the boost controller since I had creep up to 12 psi from my TP. Now that the TP is gone trying to dial in the boost. Thanks in advance.
Old May 17, 2008 | 01:39 PM
  #649  
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Originally Posted by JoeyBalls,May 16 2008, 09:51 AM
I lost to a 4-door 335 I from a 80mph roll . I thought I would easily kill him, so I let him jump first BIGTIME MISTAKE
Dude, those car are very fast, they don't look it but I think it has some type of two stage turbo system.
Old May 17, 2008 | 02:00 PM
  #650  
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Originally Posted by Revenge,May 17 2008, 04:39 PM
Dude, those car are very fast, they don't look it but I think it has some type of two stage turbo system.
335i's are twin turbo and can boogy



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