700 is deff possible on a 35r especially since u have the gtx version.
What back housing do u have?

 

I think 1.06.

 

Ok I've never understood this one. If you have a stock motor, why would you use anything other than what Honda calls for (10w30)? If you're heating up and thinning out oil beyond what a N/A motor would see, you should look into an external oil cooler. I'm no oil expert, but I kinda understand viscosity and some of the other buzz words so feel free to educate me.

Stock works. Almost everyone I've seen start screwing with the stock cooling system in the car a lot of times makes it worse. I've always wondered if the there was a correlation between AEM users and the desire to get rid of the stock setup.

 

I never understood the desire and reasoning behind people running all different kinds of viscosities just because they're boosted. I'd stick with 10w30.

 

it depends on the type of fuel ur using if ur using reg 93 i wouldnt worry too much on the type of oil if ur using racefuel, e85, e98 q16 which require more fuel then it will thin ur oil out and eventually damage ur motor...have u ever wondered why ur oil comes out like water when u change ur oil? or why it smells like fuel when ur changing ur oil?

 

correct sir I use a 10-30 in winter and 10-40 in summer. I also have an external cooler Honda runs high oil and coolant temps for efficiency and emission purposes. now the thing to remember is you want the oil to get to at least 180f to evaporate fuel and water also hydrocarbons cause the ph of the oil to become acidic which is why you want to change oil either by analyses or 3000 mile intervals. on coolant to me 165f is ok on a broke in motor but over 205f is not good because the knock threshold is so much higher. on the oil side when you exceed 230f the oil will start to cook off and is why so many people complain there car uses oil in vetc. that is largely due to the oil temp reaching 300f like a pot of near boiling water it evaporates and can be caught in a catch can. I stopped my oil consumption with the use of an external oil cooler I left the stock system in place to ensure the oil gets up to temp quickly and to simplify the system. now I only make 350ish whp but I tend to beat the car for hours at a time and its piece of mind plus I have to cool a supercharger and I was seeing oil temps around 300+ in summer now I haven't exceeded 250f on a long group drive hope. if my car put down 500 whp there is no way I would not run an oil cooler. as far as aftermarket radiators go the thing to understand there is while the stock system is one core it flows air easily but when you increase the core number you make it harder to push air through which necessitates the air be evacuated from the engine bay through hood vent or fender vents ie aftermarket fenders/hoods in order for the system to be efficient I only replaced my radiator because the stock plastic tanks cracked then the car ran hot on the highway vented hood car runs cooler than it did with stock unit it all comes down to air flow and matching components. hope this helps

 

Who was it on here that made/knew someone that made custom turbo blankets?

 

Personal preference. I wanted a thicker oil with additives (ostensibly, higher ZDDP levels are better for areas that see metal to metal contact (ie. cams)). While the engine is stock, the ancillary components are not (turbo/etc). Turbo Diesel is touted as being more resistant to breaking down as well.

 

Eric, the following link is where I bought the blanket for my S366: http://turbo-performance-products.myshopify.com/

 

So I just installed a fuel pressure gauge on my fuel rail and don't really know much about what is a "normal" fuel pressure at idle, etc. At idle the fuel pressure is around 62 psi. If the car is off and I prime the pump (without starting the engine) it sits around 42 psi. Are these normal numbers? I have the OEM fuel pressure regulator and OEM rail (not sure if it matters).