The Ems series 2 doesn't have this problem right?

 

It always started up for me. Never had any issues at all with it.

 

iono if my ecu is bad or it's my car electric or tune. but i highly doubt it the tune since it will start then later on it won't. had to use a jumper pack to get it started. if it the tune then it shouldn't start at all right? even with jumper pack...

this problem been giving me headache ... dont know anyone in san diego, CA that specialized in s2000 to fix this problem for me.

 

here my original threads with VIDEO of problem in details if anyone willing to help me out

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=834053

 

mine was the box! I sent it to AEM and they found out something in the box was wrong. 2days later get it back and no starting problems!

 

I am also having this issue. The EMS will not stat sync when the car is hot. Tuner (AP1CHIEF) adjust cam h-sense level to 0.06 and it was much better. Still after a drive, though, no hot start. Currently I'm leaning towards heat soaking, as my exhaust is not currently totally hooked up (open downpipe near the pass side as well as open wastegate) and I think that is creating more heat, and more resistance in the pass side wiring and CAM sensor. At least that is my theory. I'm going to get the rest of the exhaust fabbed up this week and see if that changes it at all.

Unless anyone has any other ideas?

 

Also, had the EMS sent back to AEM as a friend reverse booster packed the car and the EMS was acting really bad. Main board was replaced. So in my case it is very unlikely the EMS - an AEM series 2.

 

Having this same issue. AEM Series 2. Car starts fine when cold. Drive around, shut it down, go to start and just a slow crank with no stat sync. Won’t fire. Recently doing some testing it will randomly start after it gets hot , then other times it won’t fire up. So now it’s really got me stumped.

 

Hi everybody. I fixed this issue.

I relocated my battery and ran 1/0 gauge wire into the engine compartment (off a breaker), and then a 1-3 out with 4ga wire to the fuse block, retained the stock starter wire, and added another 4ga starter power cable. I have not had the problem ever since. I am attributing it to internal corrosion in the starter wire, which is most prominent with the vehicle hot.

I hope this saves people the same headache I had, and potentially a lot of money. I also have a 1/0 gauge battery ground and additional 4ga ground in the trunk, and ADDED 4ga grounds to all of the stock ground locations, in conjunction with the old ground wires.