S2000 Forced Induction S2000 Turbocharging and S2000 supercharging, for that extra kick.

The Ultimate GReddy Turbo Kit Thread

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Old Dec 21, 2008 | 01:19 PM
  #151  
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......so where can I get the new Greddy turbo? ..... :/
good prices?
rebuild?
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Old Dec 21, 2008 | 03:33 PM
  #152  
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why is yours dead? You should be able to send it to greddy to get it rebuilt or bolt on a gt28 or gt30.
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Old Dec 21, 2008 | 05:47 PM
  #153  
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It makes "gear whining sound" when warmed up......doesn't burn oil though....
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Old Dec 21, 2008 | 06:13 PM
  #154  
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what brand and weight oil are you using?
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Old Dec 21, 2008 | 06:46 PM
  #155  
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Mine made the same noise until I got a replacment oil line and fitting for the turbo b/c of leaks and know it is quiet???
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Old Dec 21, 2008 | 07:00 PM
  #156  
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Does anyone have a ball bearing and water cooled cartridge available?
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Old Dec 22, 2008 | 04:29 AM
  #157  
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Does it spin freely with no endplay? A little whine is ok for a sleeve turbo.

You'll have to replace the turbo to go BB water cooled.
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Old Dec 22, 2008 | 05:10 AM
  #158  
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interesting....two sources poining to the oil feed line issues.....

I use AmSoil 10-40........can try different one next oil change
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Old Dec 22, 2008 | 05:11 AM
  #159  
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Chris, have you encountered or heard of issues like that?
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Old Dec 22, 2008 | 05:49 AM
  #160  
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Have encountered a slight issue , wondering if anybody has got any ideas.

Out driving on sat night when i floored it and suddenly hit boost cut. Looked on my EVC and saw i had spiked to 19psi. Turned down the boost and gain and same thing happened. Had a look at the turbo yesterday and put a hand pump onto the actuator and it didnt open till about 2.2 bar. After it cracked loose it would open sometimes at 7psi sometimes at 10psi. Took it back out for a test drive and the first couple of times it would sit at actuator then it would just want to keep boosting. I checked to see if the wastegate flapper was fouling on the new downpipe but its clear. All the big UK supplier of greddy/mitsubishi turbo parts has shut for xmas now. Do you think i will be able to buy a new actuator as a separate piece for this and do you think my diagnosis is correct or do you have any ideas what else is worth checking? Didnt think actuator failure was a common occurence.

My car runs about 12psi of boost so do you think it would be preferable to run a higher rate actuator if one is available or not worth it?
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