Yeah I have a SPIKING issue with my set-up and the problem is, I am set for 12 PSI it spiked to 13PSI right where my Fuel-Cutoff is, so when I race from a roll I always spike the car hesitates for a second due to thje Fuel cutoff then the spike comes back down and all is well, huge pain in the ass

 

Well to get my car home from the garade I did the install, I just plugged the E-manage in and drove it home. The only problem is that I have the AP2 kit on my AP1, and I have read something about converting the harness. Regardless, the clicking gets worse as the turbo spools up.

 

PLEASE LAY OFF THE GAS, the clicking gets worse a higher RPMS because there is more detonation, (if thats what it is). The AP1 is a slightly smaller motor then the Ap2, so the tune may be off by just enough to cause detonation..............

I was the same way and had to learn things the hard way, dont Boost until you get this figured out

 

Have you played with the actuator at all? If so, it may be "too tight" and the wastegate doesn't fully open until it's too late.

Otherwise, I would suspect your boost controller. I'm not sure what kind you use but if you're using any sort of electronic boost controller, there is a pretty decent learning curve to getting the trims and duty cycles on the bleed valve correct.

The best aftermarket boost controller IMO is the AVC-r, and I've heard mixed reviews about the Greddy Profec II. I think the issues with the Greddy are related to set-up issues and smart mode really isn't that "smart."

With a quick-spooling turbo like the 18g, spiking is a much more prominent issue and needs to be managed with really good wastegate preload or spring selection, or a really good boost controller.

 

I did loosten up the Wastegate actuater, and I have a Turbo XS manual Boost controller. My car only spiked when I am steady at 5,000-6000RPMS and go WOT.........

 

[QUOTE=JoeyBalls,Feb 9 2009, 03:31 PM] I did loosten up the Wastegate actuater, and I have a Turbo XS manual Boost controller.

 

interesting, maybe some Oil got in their and is making it a little harder to respond? I guess I can take it off and clean it out just to be sure

 

[QUOTE=JoeyBalls,Feb 9 2009, 03:48 PM] interesting, maybe some Oil got in their and is making it a little harder to respond?

 

So I sold my J's kit a few days ago and I'm having trouble fitting my OEM AP1 bumper. It looks like I will have to shave the driver's side vent where people mount EK foglights. I really don't want to expose the intercooler piping in that vent. I've looked at the instructions and it only states to modify the front grill. I am not running any fenderliners and undercovers.

I've already made a tiny hole where the vent is from shaving it. Is this what I will have to do to make the OEM AP1 bumper clear the intercooler piping?

 

the oem ap1 bumper should clear the intercooler & piping just fine with a small shave of the grille area. are you sure it's the piping that's hitting the bumper?