The Ultimate GReddy Turbo Kit Thread
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 9,570
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From: New Jersey
yes, essentially everything, manifold, charge pipe etc........... Believe it or not it isnt that bad, just time consuming, I was able to remove the turbo in about 3 hrs.................. just get some PB Blaster and the proper tools, wasnt bad at all
Well to be honest there might be a way to adjust it with the turbo in, but the C clamp is small and the space is soooooooooo tight, I think you have to take it off
Well to be honest there might be a way to adjust it with the turbo in, but the C clamp is small and the space is soooooooooo tight, I think you have to take it off
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 7,643
Likes: 103
From: Irvine
it's WAY easier to take the turbo off and adjust the actuator. I've adjusted the actuator with the turbo on the car before and it took forever, there's not enough room to fit both hands in there, so you have to do everything with one hand.
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 9,570
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From: New Jersey
1. While the turbo is off the car, remove the C clip securing the actuator arm to the wastegate flapper arm.
2. loosen the 10mm lock nut on the actuator arm.
3.At this point you will notice that there is slight tension on the actuator arm if you try to pull it off.
4. Pull the actuator arm free from the wastegate flapper arm.Twist (loosen) the end of the actuator arm so that the arm lengthens to the point where it can slide off and on to the flapper arm freely.
5. From this point, turn the end of the actuator arm back (shorten), 3.5 turns.
6. The actuator arm should not easily slide onto the wastegate flapper arm, so now there is a slight bit of tension. Pull on the actuator arm if you need to, in order to get it onto the wastegate flapper arm. Tighten the lock nut back up against the actuator arm. TRBOKEV I SUSPECT YOU HAVE TOO MUCH TENSION HERE, WHICH DELAYS THE OPENING OF THE FLAPPER VALVE
7. Put the C clip back on to secure the actuator arm and you're done.
8. To test this, you can get a mechanical boost gauge, an air compressor and a 3 way fitting and test when the actuator arm starts to move. It should start to move at about 8-8.5 psi ( I did not do this to test)
2. loosen the 10mm lock nut on the actuator arm.
3.At this point you will notice that there is slight tension on the actuator arm if you try to pull it off.
4. Pull the actuator arm free from the wastegate flapper arm.Twist (loosen) the end of the actuator arm so that the arm lengthens to the point where it can slide off and on to the flapper arm freely.
5. From this point, turn the end of the actuator arm back (shorten), 3.5 turns.
6. The actuator arm should not easily slide onto the wastegate flapper arm, so now there is a slight bit of tension. Pull on the actuator arm if you need to, in order to get it onto the wastegate flapper arm. Tighten the lock nut back up against the actuator arm. TRBOKEV I SUSPECT YOU HAVE TOO MUCH TENSION HERE, WHICH DELAYS THE OPENING OF THE FLAPPER VALVE
7. Put the C clip back on to secure the actuator arm and you're done.
8. To test this, you can get a mechanical boost gauge, an air compressor and a 3 way fitting and test when the actuator arm starts to move. It should start to move at about 8-8.5 psi ( I did not do this to test)
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Joined: Oct 2006
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From: St. Louis
Originally Posted by Chris_Lum' date='Nov 11 2008, 06:12 PM
Exactly, i wrote this for all those newbies who don't want to read through the dozens of threads (i wouldn't!!) and are interested in the GReddy Turbo Kit. Hopefully they can find a lot of useful information here.
Awesome man, thank you for posting...this is one of the most informative threads for a single product I have ever read on here. I have been on the fence with this kit b/c I track my car.