Canton pan thoughts here
I have a 2003 AP1 with a Tilton flywheel. Pan bolted right on without the stock windage tray. Flywheel cover side bolt spacing was a little off, but I forced it and was able to bolt it up without modification.
I have raced one SCCA weekend with the pan. About 160 miles under race conditions. No engine failure. I am also using an Accusump and have been so since racing the S2000. If there was a failure I would not likely blame the pan. Racing pushes engines beyond what they were intended to do on the street. Sometimes things just fail. Things like the pan, Accusump, good oil make failures less likely. Pro teams with big engine budgets still have failures.
For the record I offered my car to Canton for test fitting, as I am only about 30 miles from them. They did not take me up on my offer, but since my car does not have A/C or a stock flywheel it may not have been such a good test subject.
I have raced one SCCA weekend with the pan. About 160 miles under race conditions. No engine failure. I am also using an Accusump and have been so since racing the S2000. If there was a failure I would not likely blame the pan. Racing pushes engines beyond what they were intended to do on the street. Sometimes things just fail. Things like the pan, Accusump, good oil make failures less likely. Pro teams with big engine budgets still have failures.
For the record I offered my car to Canton for test fitting, as I am only about 30 miles from them. They did not take me up on my offer, but since my car does not have A/C or a stock flywheel it may not have been such a good test subject.
I'll explain and elaborate more later, but this project got through by the skin of it's teeth for just this reason. And the Canton K-series pan probably will not be produced anymore because of one guy who complained of a problem that ultimately didn't have anything to do with the pan, but people keep quoting his complaints over and over and over in multiple forums, and it killed Cantons sales of that pan. His quotes and his thread continue to be brought up continuously to this day.
I have a 2003 AP1 with a Tilton flywheel. Pan bolted right on without the stock windage tray. Flywheel cover side bolt spacing was a little off, but I forced it and was able to bolt it up without modification.
I have raced one SCCA weekend with the pan. About 160 miles under race conditions. No engine failure. I am also using an Accusump and have been so since racing the S2000. If there was a failure I would not likely blame the pan. Racing pushes engines beyond what they were intended to do on the street. Sometimes things just fail. Things like the pan, Accusump, good oil make failures less likely. Pro teams with big engine budgets still have failures.
For the record I offered my car to Canton for test fitting, as I am only about 30 miles from them. They did not take me up on my offer, but since my car does not have A/C or a stock flywheel it may not have been such a good test subject.
I have raced one SCCA weekend with the pan. About 160 miles under race conditions. No engine failure. I am also using an Accusump and have been so since racing the S2000. If there was a failure I would not likely blame the pan. Racing pushes engines beyond what they were intended to do on the street. Sometimes things just fail. Things like the pan, Accusump, good oil make failures less likely. Pro teams with big engine budgets still have failures.
For the record I offered my car to Canton for test fitting, as I am only about 30 miles from them. They did not take me up on my offer, but since my car does not have A/C or a stock flywheel it may not have been such a good test subject.
99SH,
Thanks for the pics. They are very helpful. If the ring gear on the flywheel is only ~3/32" away from the cover, I can see how w/ an AP2 flywheel (if it does in fact have a thicker back beyond the ring gear) there could be contact. Just good for people to be aware of. I'll be sure to put a straight edge and check the clearance on my flywheel for comparison purposes when the time comes.
Thanks for the pics. They are very helpful. If the ring gear on the flywheel is only ~3/32" away from the cover, I can see how w/ an AP2 flywheel (if it does in fact have a thicker back beyond the ring gear) there could be contact. Just good for people to be aware of. I'll be sure to put a straight edge and check the clearance on my flywheel for comparison purposes when the time comes.
I'll explain and elaborate more later, but this project got through by the skin of it's teeth for just this reason. And the Canton K-series pan probably will not be produced anymore because of one guy who complained of a problem that ultimately didn't have anything to do with the pan, but people keep quoting his complaints over and over and over in multiple forums, and it killed Cantons sales of that pan. His quotes and his thread continue to be brought up continuously to this day.
This has been going on forever since the advent of message boards. I guess there are a lot of sheep out there though..Anyway, people need to be realistic. Would dowel pins to align the pan and other things be nice? Sure.. but that's not realistic. I don't recall seeing any aftermarket pan for hondas that use the oem dowel pins (that aren't $$$). My old moroso pan sealed just fine. Also, I saw someone's comment that they "don't want to trim metal."
Come on folks.. So you'll weld in a baffle and other countless other mods to safely track your car (rollbar requires a little cutting FYI), but you won't trim some metal?
2004 AP-2: Stock engine, flywheel and transmission.
Just returned from two track days, so haven't read all the posts.
I installed the oil pan over the 4th of July weekend. Car up on jackstands and me on the floor on my back at a weekend place with not many tools. I decided not to use the stock windage tray, so that was not an issue. I was able to get the pan to fit, although it was a tight fit. Had to put the pan on the floor jack, and carefully jack it into position. No modifications needed.
Flywheel cover did not fit, even closely. I gave up and fabricated a cover from a piece of steel roofing (24 gauge???) that was up there. Used a saber saw, a drill and a mill file to smooth out the edges. Pretty crude, but did the basic job. Made all the cuts when flat, and folded as necessary. Had to have a double second bend near the middle to clear the center section of the flywheel - and ears to bend around to close the gap in that section. Wings to cover the bottom of the engine - although I didn't do a great job on those.
Edit: Another remark: I felt that the lip of the pan extended too close to the flywheel for the supplied flywheel cover to fit adjacent to the lip, i.e., between the lip and the flywheel. On the cover that I made, I notched out the cover so that it sits on top of (i.e., below, when viewed from the bottom) the oil pan lip. The flywheel cover that was supplied was about 1/4 inch thick. The material that I used was perhaps 1/16th inch thick. I used the same 4 bolt layout and it seemed tight and sturdy enough for my purposes. Two days on track and no sense of any harmonic vibration. I admit that I did not test the cover out in the gravel trap at the end of Turn 8.
Edit: By the way, for reasons unknown, I felt much better at the track knowing that I had the baffled pan - even though my driving probably doesn't justify it. Oil starvation now just one less thing to worry about.
Just returned from two track days, so haven't read all the posts.
I installed the oil pan over the 4th of July weekend. Car up on jackstands and me on the floor on my back at a weekend place with not many tools. I decided not to use the stock windage tray, so that was not an issue. I was able to get the pan to fit, although it was a tight fit. Had to put the pan on the floor jack, and carefully jack it into position. No modifications needed.
Flywheel cover did not fit, even closely. I gave up and fabricated a cover from a piece of steel roofing (24 gauge???) that was up there. Used a saber saw, a drill and a mill file to smooth out the edges. Pretty crude, but did the basic job. Made all the cuts when flat, and folded as necessary. Had to have a double second bend near the middle to clear the center section of the flywheel - and ears to bend around to close the gap in that section. Wings to cover the bottom of the engine - although I didn't do a great job on those.
Edit: Another remark: I felt that the lip of the pan extended too close to the flywheel for the supplied flywheel cover to fit adjacent to the lip, i.e., between the lip and the flywheel. On the cover that I made, I notched out the cover so that it sits on top of (i.e., below, when viewed from the bottom) the oil pan lip. The flywheel cover that was supplied was about 1/4 inch thick. The material that I used was perhaps 1/16th inch thick. I used the same 4 bolt layout and it seemed tight and sturdy enough for my purposes. Two days on track and no sense of any harmonic vibration. I admit that I did not test the cover out in the gravel trap at the end of Turn 8.
Edit: By the way, for reasons unknown, I felt much better at the track knowing that I had the baffled pan - even though my driving probably doesn't justify it. Oil starvation now just one less thing to worry about.
This is a really important point guys. The big picture of manufactures willing to take risks in making performance parts for cars is nothing to take lightly. If you ever wondered why "how come no manufacturer has made a part for Car X, it seems simple, it can't be that big a deal...well, it really is!"
Manufacturers look at the risks involved, how much it will cost, will it work for everyone, how can we test it, and how are we going to get bashed if something doesn't work perfectly? One little problem for one part on some cars but not others, can cost manufacturers huge amounts of money for all the other products they sell.
People really don't understand how much damage they can do by just posting up stuff like that. As you've seen on the forum there are now several guys that are not going to put their pans on now. What this does is makes manufacturers less than excited to venture into new markets. The power of social media has just exploded in recent years, for good and bad. We must be responsible in how we use it, if in the end run, we want these products to come out.
Manufacturers look at the risks involved, how much it will cost, will it work for everyone, how can we test it, and how are we going to get bashed if something doesn't work perfectly? One little problem for one part on some cars but not others, can cost manufacturers huge amounts of money for all the other products they sell.
People really don't understand how much damage they can do by just posting up stuff like that. As you've seen on the forum there are now several guys that are not going to put their pans on now. What this does is makes manufacturers less than excited to venture into new markets. The power of social media has just exploded in recent years, for good and bad. We must be responsible in how we use it, if in the end run, we want these products to come out.
Can anyone name the vendor and/org the product above?














