Mine leaks at the right rear corner due to not being flat. I increased the torque on the hardware to 11 ft-lbs… not something I prefer to do. We'll see if it helps.

 

My guess is that you may still have a problem if the gasket sealant has dried. However, I don't think there is much worry about increasing the torque as you are now bolting on a steel pan. Although the block is Al, the pan is the limiting factor.

 

I'm afraid you're correct. I may bump the torque another 2 ft-lbs if 11 doesn't work but I'm afraid I'm going to gave to uninstall the pan.

 

That's what my shop wound up doing and the reinstall was with a thicker bead and a rim of silicone.
I haven't tested it out yet to see if it holds up.
So many people get hung up on the cost of a part, but it's the take backs and reworking of stuff that costs more time and money than the part.

I'd rather pay more for something up front and have it be over engineered than under.
The more my time costs, the more I favor this approach.

 

This x 3 or more. My time is valuable. Time = money. If I have to if I have to install/re-install, troubleshoot, modify, fabricate parts, that's all money and inconvenient. I'd have easily paid another $200+ for the pan to not see any of the problems I'm seeing in this thread. That said, I'm glad that I have no time to do anything right now so I know what to expect.

I bought two tubes of Hondabond, and thus intend to put a nice thick bead when I do my install. Hopefully I won't have to do any trimming, although i'm prepared for that as well. Still haven't decided how to approach the fly wheel cover thing since i'm fairly certain it won't fit (2006 with OEM AP2 fly wheel) based on what I've seen here. The crank scraper, I know i'm going to have to remove, so no problems there...

 

Agree 100%. My pan unfortunately will have to come off. I guess I need to contact Canton.

 

Hmm...I was fine with having to trim things here and there but if the pan edges aren't flat, I feel like that is a major problem. Guess I should measure mine before it goes on.

 

Maybe I am over thinking this, but what's wrong with just laying the pan down upside down on a flat surface and seeing if it sits flush before installing it? Not sure what there is to measure.

 

Shhhhh...don't tell anybody. The people that make straight edges will go out of business.

 

Um, that would be under-thinking, not over-thinking.
If you lay a pan upside down, the pan can be not flat on the edge you can't see because it's the deep edge not the leading edge.

Think of it this way. You take a pan and you put it upside down. You can't see daylight. Good right? Not necessarily. If you used dye you might only have contact on the very outside edge if the pan face slopes away from the table... but you don't put Hondabond on the very outside edge. You put it on the middle of the pan lip. The part that might not contact the engine because the lip is rolled.

You're looking to gauge contact in the middle of the pan edges rather than just the outer lip (which is all you can tell with an upside down pan). Unless you put it on a glass table.