good to know they are working on a fix

 

Did you also have to do some additional trimming to the canton pan/baffle or did it bolt right on?

Also, is the provided washer composite? I might pickup a few copper ones as I'll need them later anyway..

I hate allen bolts as well, but I guess they use them more often than not for clearance reasons.

 

I don't mind allen heads but hate non metric hardware!

 

Allen heads, especially smaller sizes, love to strip. Also, all allen wrenches are impossible to read.

Never understood why nobody created a triangle head fastener.

 

haha....you know, I've never tried to read them. I just look at the holder, or, just shove them in until they fit.

But, it make sense they strip easier because the more "surfaces" there are, the less force can be exerted on them until the wrench slips. Same for regular box end wrenches...if you don't want to strip a bolt, use a wrench with less "surfaces". I guess the ultimate would be a triangle, huh?

 

The provided washer is a normal steel one if I remember. If you are gonna get any new ones, might as well get the FelPro.

 

Ok, I'll check. Hopefully it's at least aluminum. Steel crush washers usually don't work so well..

 

It didn't require any trimming, but the AC bracket was a huge pain.

 

Just lining up the bolts?

I looked at the crush washer and it's copper.. should hopefully seal..

 

Got around to finally installing the pan. I left off the stock baffle plate as making it fit would've been a big headache. I had to trim the Canton baffle plate like Rain H8R did. I just removed it, cut it, then reinstalled it. Also, the pan sits closer to the front crossmember than I'd like. I had to move the little bracket w/ the rubber stop and shifted it front as far as it'd go, to get a few mm clearance between the rubber and the pan. Initially I couldn't get the rubber stop back on. It's a little closer than I like but it should be ok, I'll keep an eye on it. The 1/2" npt bungs also would only allow the 1/2" fitting to thread a few turns, so I ran a tap through the threads so they'd get another couple turns. The holes for all the mounting bolts lined up fine, I didn't need to enlarge any holes. The a/c bracket wasn't difficult to install, just loosen the top 2 compressor mounting bolts and it'll stay in place. I had to be careful threading in the 3 mounting bolts for the a/c bracket onto the pan as they weren't quite perfectly aligned, but I was able to get them on fine.

Also, the flywheel cover fit fine, but I'm running an aftermarket flywheel. I stuck a washer between the cover and bell housing to space it out a tiny bit just for piece of mind. I can't comment about leaking as it's just been installed. 6.5 qts it took to fill up.

Some other tips: Brake cleaner is your friend. Make sure the mating surfaces are very clean and free of oil/crud. This allows the rtv to bond to the metal surfaces and helps it seal. One of the rear corners where the oil keeps draining can be a bit of a pain, but if you work quick in between drips you should be able to get the pan on w/o much oil hitting the rtv at that spot. Be liberal w/ the RTV to make sure it seals well.

Edit: Link to RainH8R's post and picture of where to trim: https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/101...t__p__23173299

In case the pictures get removed it's basically a 1/4" off the open edges closest to the timing chain.

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