Canton pan thoughts here
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 341
Likes: 3
Holy shit 1/16"? That's absurd. Is it a general distortion of the mounting surface or just a single high/low point?
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 3,964
Likes: 7
From: USA
Well, I have run mine at several track days now with no issues. As Jason (yamahaSHO) mentioned earlier I am seeing less oil in the catch can now so I am assuming it is working but I don't have a pressure gauge so no hard data to offer.
As mentioned previously there are a few things I would change but overall I am very happy.
1.) Provide hardware with flanged head, I really hate using allen head bolts unless I absolutely have to.
2.) Use the OEM dowels to help line up the pan, or mention that they need to be removed
3.) Provide bolts and nuts for the bell housing cover plate.
4.) Use a better drain plug, I could not get mine to stop dripping and had to buy a new one from the auto parts store.
As mentioned previously there are a few things I would change but overall I am very happy.
1.) Provide hardware with flanged head, I really hate using allen head bolts unless I absolutely have to.
2.) Use the OEM dowels to help line up the pan, or mention that they need to be removed
3.) Provide bolts and nuts for the bell housing cover plate.
4.) Use a better drain plug, I could not get mine to stop dripping and had to buy a new one from the auto parts store.
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 672
Likes: 3
Originally Posted by SlowTeg' timestamp='1407526748' post='23278908
FWIW, I just put a straight edge on the Canton pan I have and it looks decent. <1/16" gap at its largest, not even. from one end to the other. I'll just apply RTV a little liberally and that should solve the problem.
Well, I have run mine at several track days now with no issues. As Jason (yamahaSHO) mentioned earlier I am seeing less oil in the catch can now so I am assuming it is working but I don't have a pressure gauge so no hard data to offer.
As mentioned previously there are a few things I would change but overall I am very happy.
1.) Provide hardware with flanged head, I really hate using allen head bolts unless I absolutely have to.
2.) Use the OEM dowels to help line up the pan, or mention that they need to be removed
3.) Provide bolts and nuts for the bell housing cover plate.
4.) Use a better drain plug, I could not get mine to stop dripping and had to buy a new one from the auto parts store.
As mentioned previously there are a few things I would change but overall I am very happy.
1.) Provide hardware with flanged head, I really hate using allen head bolts unless I absolutely have to.
2.) Use the OEM dowels to help line up the pan, or mention that they need to be removed
3.) Provide bolts and nuts for the bell housing cover plate.
4.) Use a better drain plug, I could not get mine to stop dripping and had to buy a new one from the auto parts store.
The dowels aren't necessary either. It's very easy to line up.
Hardware for the cover plate would be nice.
I hope my drain plug doesn't leak.
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,024
Likes: 1
Well, I have run mine at several track days now with no issues. As Jason (yamahaSHO) mentioned earlier I am seeing less oil in the catch can now so I am assuming it is working but I don't have a pressure gauge so no hard data to offer.
As mentioned previously there are a few things I would change but overall I am very happy.
1.) Provide hardware with flanged head, I really hate using allen head bolts unless I absolutely have to.
2.) Use the OEM dowels to help line up the pan, or mention that they need to be removed
3.) Provide bolts and nuts for the bell housing cover plate.
4.) Use a better drain plug, I could not get mine to stop dripping and had to buy a new one from the auto parts store.
As mentioned previously there are a few things I would change but overall I am very happy.
1.) Provide hardware with flanged head, I really hate using allen head bolts unless I absolutely have to.
2.) Use the OEM dowels to help line up the pan, or mention that they need to be removed
3.) Provide bolts and nuts for the bell housing cover plate.
4.) Use a better drain plug, I could not get mine to stop dripping and had to buy a new one from the auto parts store.
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,677
Likes: 9
As for the drain plug, it's flat. From what Canton relayed, they have an alternate washer that can be used if the supplied copper isn't sealing right. There isn't any evidence that the drain plug itself is bad - afterall it's just a bolt.
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 3,689
Likes: 21
Well, I have run mine at several track days now with no issues. As Jason (yamahaSHO) mentioned earlier I am seeing less oil in the catch can now so I am assuming it is working but I don't have a pressure gauge so no hard data to offer.
As mentioned previously there are a few things I would change but overall I am very happy.
1.) Provide hardware with flanged head, I really hate using allen head bolts unless I absolutely have to.
2.) Use the OEM dowels to help line up the pan, or mention that they need to be removed
3.) Provide bolts and nuts for the bell housing cover plate.
4.) Use a better drain plug, I could not get mine to stop dripping and had to buy a new one from the auto parts store.
As mentioned previously there are a few things I would change but overall I am very happy.
1.) Provide hardware with flanged head, I really hate using allen head bolts unless I absolutely have to.
2.) Use the OEM dowels to help line up the pan, or mention that they need to be removed
3.) Provide bolts and nuts for the bell housing cover plate.
4.) Use a better drain plug, I could not get mine to stop dripping and had to buy a new one from the auto parts store.
My mechanic hates allen heads as well. But couldn't give me a reason why. lol. Although he didn't have any English wrenches.
Using dowels is impractical as previously discussed, and, I could be wrong, but I'm pretty sure one of the two instruction sheets mentioned this.
I just used the existing bolts and put a nut on the end.
My drain plug was fine. Did you try a new washer before you bought an new bolt?
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 3,689
Likes: 21
Originally Posted by SlowTeg' timestamp='1407759076' post='23281517
A couple notes.. Does anyone know the size of the bolts/nuts needed for the flywheel cover? Also, what is wrong with the drain plug, is it tapered/not flat?
As for the drain plug, it's flat. From what Canton relayed, they have an alternate washer that can be used if the supplied copper isn't sealing right. There isn't any evidence that the drain plug itself is bad - afterall it's just a bolt.
FelPro is one of the most respected gasket makers around. The drain plug washer is a plastic composite of some sort. $1.50 at Autozone, $0.41 at RockAuto
http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/x,cata...PRO_70822.html
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...er=629804_0_0_
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 838
Likes: 5
From: MI
Late, but I thought I'd chime in. Installed on my '07, left off stock windage tray, flywheel cover doesn't fit with stock flywheel. I let Jeff know and he said they were working on a fix. Considering spacers in the interim.