S2000 STR prep resource
Originally Posted by josh7owens,Oct 7 2009, 10:39 PM
So basicly I'll have 4 grand left to start my str s2k. I have heard from a local member that I autocross with (marc) that the ast's from what he heard where amazing and did really well. Which are like half the price of mortons.
Originally Posted by TheNick,Jul 21 2009, 05:10 PM
snip...
Revalved Bilsteins - the PSS series of dampers use the exact same 46mm piston that all the roundy round shocks do. In other words - you can get yourself a pretty high end monotube shock for a very good price. Talk to Marcus Meridith about a revalve for these. I personally would stick to non-adjustable unless the adjustable dirt track shaft that Bilstein offers is different than the PSS shaft.
...snip
Revalved Bilsteins - the PSS series of dampers use the exact same 46mm piston that all the roundy round shocks do. In other words - you can get yourself a pretty high end monotube shock for a very good price. Talk to Marcus Meridith about a revalve for these. I personally would stick to non-adjustable unless the adjustable dirt track shaft that Bilstein offers is different than the PSS shaft.
...snip
PSS/PSS9 Thoughts (goal to achieve PSS based DAs with digressive valving)
- Add a bung and external canister to get compression adjustment (remove divider piston). For rear it may require removal of the piggy back reservoir.
- Change the piston to digressive if not already digressive
- Figure out a way to convert the simultaneous rebound/compression adjuster on PSS9 to rebound only
- See if the Bilstein double adjustable shaft will work in the PSS/PSS9 (mentioned) and adapt to S2K.
Depending on how the above ideas pan out you could have a nice set of SA or DA shocks that can be tuned at will. The trick is to do it and stay far enough below the cost of Penske's ($3,400 from AKE). My goal would be to achieve PSS based DAs for under $2,300. PSS set are about $1,200 (new) and PSS9 about $1,500 (new)
Anyone tried these kind of ideas?
Josh: In all seriousness, shocks for autocross have been discussed many times on the forum, and the advice applies to just about any class you might run. The basic answer is that if you get shocks that can be custom valved and get someone who knows what they're doing to set up the valving, it does not make an enormous difference which brand you have. There will be some difference in the adjustment range and consistency depending on the price level, but any of them is likely better than anything you buy off the shelf as-is.
Originally Posted by Random1,Oct 7 2009, 09:18 PM
[*]Add a bung and external canister to get compression adjustment (remove divider piston). For rear it may require removal of the piggy back reservoir.
Anyone tried these kind of ideas?
Anyone tried these kind of ideas?
Fat Cat Motorsports does Bilstein DA conversions mostly for Miatas. At one point, he was using Ohlin pistons and shafts in Bilstein bodies.
Originally Posted by Random1,Oct 8 2009, 12:18 AM
Has anyone developed anything with the PSS or PSS9 shocks? I've had a few ideas that require exploration unless someone else has tried.
PSS/PSS9 Thoughts (goal to achieve PSS based DAs with digressive valving)
Depending on how the above ideas pan out you could have a nice set of SA or DA shocks that can be tuned at will. The trick is to do it and stay far enough below the cost of Penske's ($3,400 from AKE). My goal would be to achieve PSS based DAs for under $2,300. PSS set are about $1,200 (new) and PSS9 about $1,500 (new)
Anyone tried these kind of ideas?
PSS/PSS9 Thoughts (goal to achieve PSS based DAs with digressive valving)
- Add a bung and external canister to get compression adjustment (remove divider piston). For rear it may require removal of the piggy back reservoir.
- Change the piston to digressive if not already digressive
- Figure out a way to convert the simultaneous rebound/compression adjuster on PSS9 to rebound only
- See if the Bilstein double adjustable shaft will work in the PSS/PSS9 (mentioned) and adapt to S2K.
Depending on how the above ideas pan out you could have a nice set of SA or DA shocks that can be tuned at will. The trick is to do it and stay far enough below the cost of Penske's ($3,400 from AKE). My goal would be to achieve PSS based DAs for under $2,300. PSS set are about $1,200 (new) and PSS9 about $1,500 (new)
Anyone tried these kind of ideas?
In my opinion, if you buy PSS's you are wasting your money. Like I said above, there are cheaper ways to get Bilstein's on your car. Not easier, but cheaper. For me, its about an afternoon worth of work to get a set of circle track shocks fabricated to fit to my car. For a total cost of about $200 if I can find some used shocks. If I buy them new, they still only cost $400. If I go aluminum body the price point doubles and then some because I have to get mounting forks fabricated. If I use steel body shocks I can just take the forks off my OEM shocks.
The PSS9 adjustable shaft is crap. You basically have full stiff and full soft. There is no in between. The DA shaft from Bilstein is expensive, not sure how much but the person I talked to about them basically made it sound like "not worth it". But that being said - if the shaft is $200 - put them in shocks that cost $400 - then you have DA Bilsteins for $1200.
I also don't know a whole lot about the DA shaft. I don't think they use a bleed window like they do on the PSS shaft. I think its much more like the Penske's where its a needle jet. But like I said, I don't know. They might be no different and the adjustments could be useless.
XS's will be crap on our car. No forward bite, you'll be fighting to put power down the entire time.
Here's a proven setup that works on the street and at the track.
600F/500R - Revalved SA Koni's - Saner Front bar on full stiff, no rear bar.
You'll be amazed. Run that for a few seasons and then come back and we'll get you up to the next level.
Here's a proven setup that works on the street and at the track.
600F/500R - Revalved SA Koni's - Saner Front bar on full stiff, no rear bar.
You'll be amazed. Run that for a few seasons and then come back and we'll get you up to the next level.
Originally Posted by TheNick,Oct 8 2009, 05:42 AM
XS's will be crap on our car. No forward bite, you'll be fighting to put power down the entire time.
Here's a proven setup that works on the street and at the track.
600F/500R - Revalved SA Koni's - Saner Front bar on full stiff, no rear bar.
You'll be amazed. Run that for a few seasons and then come back and we'll get you up to the next level.
Here's a proven setup that works on the street and at the track.
600F/500R - Revalved SA Koni's - Saner Front bar on full stiff, no rear bar.
You'll be amazed. Run that for a few seasons and then come back and we'll get you up to the next level.
Here's a n00bish question that I think I have the answer to already (via searching) but just need to confirm, and maybe it'll be a good tidbit for this thread:
When people say "revalved Koni's," they are referring to a valving that is set up already, right? As in, an "auto-x spec," and most people aren't choosing custom damping rates whenever they have this done. Is this right? Also, is the main difference a higher compression rate?
That's a steak house right? Mmmm.....steak.....
When people say "revalved Koni's," they are referring to a valving that is set up already, right? As in, an "auto-x spec," and most people aren't choosing custom damping rates whenever they have this done. Is this right? Also, is the main difference a higher compression rate?
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