rob, you cut off the air scoop that use to bring air in from above the rad. support beam and are now only getting air from that hole? What made you do this?

This is what I did..

 

I don't think you can draw that conclusion. I can think of at least 3 other major variables that could allow it perform better than stock that have nothing to do with flow pattern.
1) It is pulling true cold air (from in front of the rad).
2) The front hole looks to be positioned in a nice place where there may be some natural air current. If this current is higher than the flow rate pulled at WOT, then it will create some degree of a pressure head (IE, ram-air). This, like colder air, increases the density -> hp gain.
3) (not verified)... I believe the intake uses a non-OEM filter, which is likely one of the largest differences.

 

Everyone quick emergency. Shop discovered I had a broken front bar end link on the saner bar and have divisionals this weekend. They think the OEM end link will fit. Is there any reason to try this or will the OEM end links just snap immediately when hit by the Saner bars force.

The other option is just putting the stock sway bar back on with the OEM end links.

 

IIRC (please confirm), the Comptech FSB uses the stock endlinks and is likely stiffer than the Saner bar. This is based on something I read several years ago, and my memory sux.

BTW, while you are ordering parts, I suggest ordering spare endlinks and brackets and take them to the events with you. I broke both of these before.

Sorry to hear about your problem right before a big event. Good luck!

-Dave

 

The stock front bar will really hurt your performance I think, and I doubt you'll break the stock end link that quickly. I know most of the aftermarket bars (eibach, swift, etc) just use the stock endlinks.

So you're kind of choosing between definitely being significantly less competitive, or being competitive but having a small but significant chance of breaking an endlink and being completely uncompetitive. To me, the latter seems better, so my recommendation would be to use the stock end link if it really does fit (and get a new endlink on order). You can even adjust most of your preload out with the other endlink most likely.

But I haven't actually tried it so take my advice with a grain of salt.

 

Actually, you made me remember something else about the Mugen intake. In STD form it's one cold air scoop that actually requires that you cut the fan shroud doesn't it? I know for STR one can't modify the hood or the shroud... so they have to dremel away the scoop of the mugen intake. I would imagine that this makes it perform far worse then as it was designed to perform.

I think the Mugen is a great weight reduction modification, and it's certainly good looking, but not necessarily a better power maker than the stock intake. However, I don't own one... maybe someone who has one can chime in with some Dyno #'s (STR Modified Mugen... not STD mugen...).

 

Hey Josh... don't think those aluminum PJDM radiator stays are legal.

And now... to post something "productive"... I bought a digital luggage scale the other day and started weighing things with it. Turns out my Recaro SPG w/ Taitec rail is only 23.345 lbs.... So, I'm adding a bunch of tire balancing lead bars to the rails to get to 25lbs. My Passenger seat is a sparco sprint 5 and weighs 25.3 lbs.

I'm going to weigh my Buddy Club wheels w/ Tires vs my TR Motorsports w/ Tires when my Co-driver brings them over this weekend. If I recall, the TR's were 43.*** lbs a peice!

 

haha yea, yea. I hear ya.... I would bet the passwordjdm ones weight more then the stock one forreal. lol


mike, I don't see your name on the blytheville entry list yet, you should go!

 

Well good news, the shop had some spare endlinks for me to borrow and I can run the bar at medium stiffness just not full stiffness.

 

Blytheville? I thought that event was last month. Do you mean Lincoln? I'm going to Lincoln.