Chin won't be back to Homestead until next year but I'm trying to sign up with NASA now so that I can run with them. Their next event at Homestead is Sept 1 & 2 which I'm trying to make, otherwise they come back November 24,25.

Also gathering info on FARA, although I can't find their website, to see if running with them is a possibility too.

 

Sounds great. I'm gonna have to get into some club racing soon! I've only autox'ed my S once and I really didn't care for it to much. Club racing's the way to go. If you're there on sept 1st i'll see you there.

 

yo alex as you know im up @ Road Atlanta with N.A.S.A. and was asking the tech guys what class the M2000 would fall in. and they said they need the wheel HP weight with driver and then they could figure out more or less what TT class to put you in. and also they will figure out with the suspension as well.

 

2050lbs+150lb driver = 2200lbs

232whp

 

Hey focker answer your p.m.'s or call me. I need to ask you something.

Andres

 

Update 40!

Well then, some time has passed since the inaugural run of the car and some work has been done on the car since then. In order to try to gain some camber, we need to lower the car. This meant that the car would have to go back to the muffler shop for a some rethinking and redesigning of the system. The goal was to lower the car one inch and to make it quieter with a removable race muffler.

So the car went directly to LES Exhaust and we began to consider options. Between the dyno time, homestead heat, and bottoming out on the track, our 3" resonator was destroyed. Also, we decided to run the exhaust to the rear rather than keep the side exhaust layout. Once the header collects to the 3" pipe, it now bends towards the driver's side and then bends up and over the transmission brace into the Miata's factory exhaust tunnel.

Then the 3" pipe runs towards the back with a new 3" resonator just before the differential. Once it passes through the rear subframe brace, it bends towards the passenger side and runs through a 3" Magnaflow race muffler and out the Miata's stock exhaust hole. The section at the back is removeable and I'll have a straight pipe to put back there when I want to make noise..

Anyhow, once that was finished the car came back home and we began work:

Sleeping fury:









The exhaust:







At the muffler shop, we attached all hangers but the one that would go on the rear subframe brace so that we could adjust it to our liking at home and final bolt it. While doing that though, we noticed that the pipe comes rather close to the CV joint boot on the driver's side so we wrapped that section with exhaust heat wrap:











We also had to notch the rear brace a bit so that the clearances weren't so tight:

 

While Rene and my dad were having their fun at the back of the car, I was up front installing our new oil cooler. Apparently the west coast S2000 guys (that actually race their cars...) are ok with the fact that F20C oil temps at the track hover between 260-300. I'm not. Also, we learned at homestead that our water temps were too high and the F20C's factory oil cooler was working backwards and becoming a coolant warmer...

Right then, so on to the pics:

The front clip comes off all as one piece and is surprisingly strong:







The guts:



Oil cooler:



Changing out oil filter adapters:



Due to the location of the sensor holes interfering with the factory oil cooler, I had to relocate our oil pressure sender to the location of the stock dummy light sensor which is directly on the block. Our new adapter services the oil cooler and the oil temperature sender:









That's the pressure sender:



Here you can see the temperature sender at the bottom and the two lines that feed the cooler:



The lines hanging out:



This is where I'm going to mount it for now, we're going to monitor the temperatures and adjust its location and or ducting accordingly. I'm not after frigid oil but I'm not ok with 300 degrees either so even though the location is out of the way of direct airflow, the cooling effect of 1-2 additional liters of oil, the length of the lines, and the oil radiator should have enough effect of the temperatures.





Once I had everything mocked up, I started to secure the lines. You have to be very careful with stainless lines because they try to eat everything around them...







Our nifty bracket:





Sweet!

 

nice work Alex...

 

After that, we started to tackle the starter problem. We figured we'd take it apart and take a look inside to see if there was anything obviously wrong...









Other than some regular wearing on the part that rotates, there wasn't anything out of the ordinary...







So we cleaned the contacts, regreased it, put it back together, and then tested it:





Now to install the heat blanket. Starters draw more amperage when they get hot, maybe this will help...













Nice.

Then to cap it off, I snagged a coil cover that was in decent condition from the for sale forum, cleaned it up, and put it on....

What a difference:





I guess there is no mystery about what powers this car anymore....