Not sure my memory is correct, but at one time I was advised to be wary about cars that traded in PA. Reason was that PA has loopholes in regs that allowed "covering tracks" of a vehicle.

Don't know if this helpful or just worrisome. Just be extra careful

 

Seems like a classic case where the owner has more in the car than it is worth. With the mods he did it will always be a Frankenstein S2K. As it sits it is not a collector car as the owner indicates. I would get tired of explaining that it is an AP1 made to look like and AP2...no thank you! For not a lot more money you can get into an actual stock AP2, with lower miles.
Just my .02.

 

+1

 

Yeah, I was waiting for someone else to say this too. I just paid the same for a clean, original 75k mile AP1. I personally would prefer a straight up AP1 or a genuine AP2 for more money, where it's more clear what you've actually got.

 

What would a 01 Silverstone with 80k miles two owner car go for. Clean tittle and in great condition.

 

If everything is fine and checks out... $13k or less.

 

+1 Spot on!

 

Cool, it's actually my car and I'm curious about what it would be worth if I sold it. Thank you!

 

Mark it up for a few grand more (since you'll obviously be negotiated with) and be patient.

i wasn't in a rush and it took me 6-9 months to sell my previous Tacoma. But, in the end, I sold it for $3-4k over kbb. I made it looks pretty as can be, detailed it, polished it and did almost all the maintenance, fluids, replaced wear items, so I could ask a higher price.

 

Hi everyone (or anyone)!

I appreciate all the info here I've read over the past couple months, and any help, and apologize if this is not the best place for this thread. The official "is this car worth it?" thread was locked, so here goes...

The car I'm considering:

Firm Price: $10,000 (He cannot go lower; details below)

All stock, 2002 Suzuka Blue, 118k miles, 2 owners, carfax showed 1 accident but still gave a +$550 since there were many dealer service records from original owner who had all the way up to 2013. However, there are no service records with the car now.

Body is in good condition with only a 1" spot where paint is flaking on the top layer where the bumper meets the fend panel on the hood (accident repair), and a 1" dent pushing out mildly from inside the driver side rear fender.

Interior was pretty much perfect

Tires don't match and have about 50% tread, slight bulge in the sidewall or one of the rears

Seems to be a very honest seller who co-signed for his brother who bought this car, and then took it over when his brother lost interest. He said the car is small for him.

If I take him at his word/photos, then the car is consuming very little oil.

I did test drive the car and everything felt fine, given this was a short, off-highway drive, and my first time in an S2000.

I would rate the car between good and very good based on the Kelly Blue Book descriptions for values: Good is $7,600. Very Good is $8,800. If I split the difference and add the $550 from the carfax then that pretty much puts the car back to the very good value of $8,800. That leaves me paying an extra $1,2000 according to KBB. That is my first cause for hesitation.


The second cause for my hesitation has to do withe general Ap1 vs Ap2 debate. I did search the forums so Im not trying to open that up in general here, but more specifically mention the possible reliability issues with Oil jet (aka banjo) bolts and valve spring retainers. The way I see it, for peace of mind I am going to be replacing those right away, so that means more out of pocket cost. I'm figuring since worst case, I pay a shop to do it, for maybe another $1,000? I can turn a wrench, but don't have my own garage.

The seller cannot go any lower because is already putting up an extra $1,800 to hit the payoff amount on his loan. (I know, his problem, really)

So my other option would be to wait for a good MY04 or 05. But I'm set on Suzuka Blue.

In any case the overall question remains, do S2ks usually sell above Kelly Blue Book? if so how much % bump should I expect? Right now I'd be paying an extra 13%... I might be more willing to pay over KBB for an Ap2 since there is likely to be less extra costs after purchase...


Thanks in advance. Any insight is appreciated!