Official Is This Car Worth It Thread vol 3
Fair price...IF it didn't have an accident.
I'd honestly just wait and keep searching for one with no accidents, unless a previous accident was a very very minor one (eg: parking lot fender bender, low speed 5mph "tap," etc.) and/or well documented with lots of pics and proof.
I'd honestly just wait and keep searching for one with no accidents, unless a previous accident was a very very minor one (eg: parking lot fender bender, low speed 5mph "tap," etc.) and/or well documented with lots of pics and proof.
Do have an understanding of the type of accident e.g. minor, serious front end involving the suspension, etc.? Seems like a very fair deal at $10K for a MY02. As Vasquesgno indicated, the 10 VIN stickers need to match on the various body panels. Hopefully, the top is in decent shape. Typically, when you start getting into the sub $10K S2K range you are looking at a salvage/rebuilt car, or really high miles, or the condition is really bad or some combination of all three. I rather have the maintenance records from the prior owner when most of the miles were apparently put on the car. Seems like the seller is honest, so you could ask him about his maintenance performed. Finally, few sellers would eat the $1,800 to pay off the loan. GLWP!
It's a fair price, but I wouldn't say that it's a great deal. The peeling paint and miss matches tires would bother me. I think you can find a better example within the price range of 10,000-11,000.
I wouldn't jump and just replace retainers right away. Unless is was over-revved you should be fine. Just inspect for peace of mind.
Furthermore, depending on the tires your gonna need to replace them soon at 50%. If he's running extreme summer tires they are going to be toast fast. That's another 1000 dollars that you may be putting out.
So all in all, if you put 1000 in for peace of mind, 1000 in for tires, misc items/fluid 200 (if needed) your in the car 12,200 and it's still has peeling paint. 12k could get you a nicer s2k.
Just my opinion though.
I wouldn't jump and just replace retainers right away. Unless is was over-revved you should be fine. Just inspect for peace of mind.
Furthermore, depending on the tires your gonna need to replace them soon at 50%. If he's running extreme summer tires they are going to be toast fast. That's another 1000 dollars that you may be putting out.
So all in all, if you put 1000 in for peace of mind, 1000 in for tires, misc items/fluid 200 (if needed) your in the car 12,200 and it's still has peeling paint. 12k could get you a nicer s2k.
Just my opinion though.
https://greenville.craigslist.org/cto/5345723624.html
I went and looked at it today. It seemed very nice, casual wear and tears in the interior. The CEL was on and i asked why, the owner said if you rev to 9k itll come on but turn off later. Is that true? Ive actaully never really driven stickshift before so when i drove this i noticed the clutch was stiff, is that a problem?
Any input would be great. I dont want to waste my time and money. Thanks!
I went and looked at it today. It seemed very nice, casual wear and tears in the interior. The CEL was on and i asked why, the owner said if you rev to 9k itll come on but turn off later. Is that true? Ive actaully never really driven stickshift before so when i drove this i noticed the clutch was stiff, is that a problem?
Any input would be great. I dont want to waste my time and money. Thanks!
The CEL issue may be true for that car, but its absolutely not true for the s2k in general. CEL shouldn't come on any time, much less at redline. A solid CEL could be a minor issue though, and you should definitely know what code its throwing before considering the car. Otherwise it looks pretty clean, and 130k is nothing for these cars (I'm at 225k and counting with barely any issues).
Yeah for $9500 you could do a lot worse. It has had the front bumper replaced or something hit it to cause the grill to be missing. I would want to know what it is lowered on. The cel thing is the only troubling part. You can buy a code reader off amazon for very cheap. Order one and plug it in to pull the codes then google them. You can also have it inspected which wouldn't be a bad idea just to be sure it hasn't had frame damage or anything.
On the clutch issue: most likely culprit at 130k is the ball joint in the clutch slave cylinder assembly. Overtime, the grease is lost or dries out, and the clutch becomes sticky and more firm. Its a 30 min exercise to get some new grease in there.










