Official Is This Car Worth It Thread vol 3
04-12-2016, 10:32 AM
#521
I know what I think, but wanted to get others opinions.
Looking for my 3rd S, lasted less then 4 years since I sold my last one.
Was looking for a project, so this one isn't that, but it won't be driven daily, nor in the winter, as I have a daily TSX.
It's a 07 GPW with Black/Red interior, with 200k miles. New clutch, timing chain tensioner, valve cover gaskets etc around 5k miles ago. Has BC coils and some Varrstoen ES3 wheels(would be sold). Top has 2 rips, but he says they dont leak. Alao, has OEM lip.
Anyways, he is asking 13,500. We have spoken and we have a set price a little bit lower, that im happy with, but just curious what you would pay?
Yes, high miles. But won't be daily driven, maybe 5k miles a year if that.
Goal is hardtop, so not horribly worried about the rips in top. Last S had hardtop and I took it off 3 times in 2 years.
Thanks for your input!
Looking for my 3rd S, lasted less then 4 years since I sold my last one.
Was looking for a project, so this one isn't that, but it won't be driven daily, nor in the winter, as I have a daily TSX.
It's a 07 GPW with Black/Red interior, with 200k miles. New clutch, timing chain tensioner, valve cover gaskets etc around 5k miles ago. Has BC coils and some Varrstoen ES3 wheels(would be sold). Top has 2 rips, but he says they dont leak. Alao, has OEM lip.
Anyways, he is asking 13,500. We have spoken and we have a set price a little bit lower, that im happy with, but just curious what you would pay?
Yes, high miles. But won't be daily driven, maybe 5k miles a year if that.
Goal is hardtop, so not horribly worried about the rips in top. Last S had hardtop and I took it off 3 times in 2 years.
Thanks for your input!
Hmm.. Maybe like $12k since it's an 08. High miles bother me though.
04-14-2016, 12:11 PM
#522
Hi Guys,
Looking at a 2005 Sebring Silver with 65,000 miles. Asking price is $14,000.
I haven't gone to look at the car yet, but here's what I know so far:
-No maintenance history available according the to current owner.
-Ran an Autocheck: No accidents and overall clean history. Per Autocheck, car is currently on its 4th owner, but was told by current owner that they are the 2nd owner. This raises a red flag in my book.
-Car has been modified. Coilovers, exhaust, aftermarket stereo. Owner mentioned these were done by a shop.
Looking at a 2005 Sebring Silver with 65,000 miles. Asking price is $14,000.
I haven't gone to look at the car yet, but here's what I know so far:
-No maintenance history available according the to current owner.
-Ran an Autocheck: No accidents and overall clean history. Per Autocheck, car is currently on its 4th owner, but was told by current owner that they are the 2nd owner. This raises a red flag in my book.
-Car has been modified. Coilovers, exhaust, aftermarket stereo. Owner mentioned these were done by a shop.
04-14-2016, 04:12 PM
#525
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey guys,
I'm looking at a 2005 Suzuka Blue with a clean title, 62,200 miles, and the following mods.
-Tseudo Catback exhaust
-Replica 4-2-1 stainless header
-Berk 70mm High flow cat
-AEM V2 cold air intake
-KW V.3 Coilovers
-Karcepts adjustable front sway bar
-Stock rotors with EBC yellow stuff brake pads front and rear
-2 sets of wheels (AP2 V1 and a near mint set of RPF1's)
-APR front lip
-Clifford alarm and keyless entry
-VAFC2 currently has all stock settings including VTEC engage point.
-Skunk2 weighted shift knob
His asking price is 17,500 with all the modifications included, or 15,500 with the wheels and suspension swapped back to stock and the rest included.
I haven't been able to see the car in person yet, but the pictures look good and the seller has a pleasant email demeanor that doesn't raise any immediate alarms.
What do you guys think?
http://boise.craigslist.org/cto/5521377502.html
Thanks!
I'm looking at a 2005 Suzuka Blue with a clean title, 62,200 miles, and the following mods.
-Tseudo Catback exhaust
-Replica 4-2-1 stainless header
-Berk 70mm High flow cat
-AEM V2 cold air intake
-KW V.3 Coilovers
-Karcepts adjustable front sway bar
-Stock rotors with EBC yellow stuff brake pads front and rear
-2 sets of wheels (AP2 V1 and a near mint set of RPF1's)
-APR front lip
-Clifford alarm and keyless entry
-VAFC2 currently has all stock settings including VTEC engage point.
-Skunk2 weighted shift knob
His asking price is 17,500 with all the modifications included, or 15,500 with the wheels and suspension swapped back to stock and the rest included.
I haven't been able to see the car in person yet, but the pictures look good and the seller has a pleasant email demeanor that doesn't raise any immediate alarms.
What do you guys think?
http://boise.craigslist.org/cto/5521377502.html
Thanks!
04-15-2016, 02:35 PM
#526
Seems very reasonable to me for a 2005 at just over 60,000 miles, but as always overall condition plays a very important factor.
$50 or so edit: *carfax* can potentially save you from a real headache (+$150-200 tops for a full buyer's inspection). Accident free, clean car, no rust (Boise in the winter..), strong engine and strong mechanically, good cosmetic shape outside and in, it would be a fair deal if all that checks out. If there's any lights on (like brake light, ABS, check engine,) ... have the car scanned to find out what the code is and have the shop quote you for a replacement/fix.
It's always tough sitting behind the computer wondering what the real condition of a car is from a craiglist ad.
But *IF* it is in very good shape, (as in it checks out and is a car you wouldn't have to sink much money/time and work into or get rid of), looks very good cosmetically, you are not getting hosed on the deal. I could sell my (nearly) completely stock 2004 with 43,000 miles on the clock for as much without any modifications and with one set of wheels and with just the soft top as in the ad. Hopefully you are close enough to Boise to make it not too far of a drive.
Check the engine oil, brake fluid, transmission fluid, anything that you can (not sure if you can actually check the diff. fluid short of changing it?). If the fluid levels are good and the car looks clean, the carfax checks out, car sounds good with no funny noises, I'd consider that a good start.
If the spark plugs haven't been changed they're definitely due to be. Ask if it's had a valve adjustment yet (also due), and if he does all the work himself or if you can see the car's service/maintenance records.
One more thing, ask if the car has been tracked. If so, the maintenance becomes all the more important. My AP2 was, but fortunately the previous owner was someone mechanically inclined and a friend of mine. There's stuff I've missed (especially as far as pointing out specific things to look for and check, but it's a great start minimum).
Just remember, while a Honda, it's a used car.
If anything at all seems suspect, walk away, and if for some reason you still can't pass, make sure the shop can identify exactly what it is and what the fix will be.
Why the essay? Because I've been screwed on a used car before (before my S2000[s]).
$50 or so edit: *carfax* can potentially save you from a real headache (+$150-200 tops for a full buyer's inspection). Accident free, clean car, no rust (Boise in the winter..), strong engine and strong mechanically, good cosmetic shape outside and in, it would be a fair deal if all that checks out. If there's any lights on (like brake light, ABS, check engine,) ... have the car scanned to find out what the code is and have the shop quote you for a replacement/fix.
It's always tough sitting behind the computer wondering what the real condition of a car is from a craiglist ad.
But *IF* it is in very good shape, (as in it checks out and is a car you wouldn't have to sink much money/time and work into or get rid of), looks very good cosmetically, you are not getting hosed on the deal. I could sell my (nearly) completely stock 2004 with 43,000 miles on the clock for as much without any modifications and with one set of wheels and with just the soft top as in the ad. Hopefully you are close enough to Boise to make it not too far of a drive.
Check the engine oil, brake fluid, transmission fluid, anything that you can (not sure if you can actually check the diff. fluid short of changing it?). If the fluid levels are good and the car looks clean, the carfax checks out, car sounds good with no funny noises, I'd consider that a good start.
If the spark plugs haven't been changed they're definitely due to be. Ask if it's had a valve adjustment yet (also due), and if he does all the work himself or if you can see the car's service/maintenance records.One more thing, ask if the car has been tracked. If so, the maintenance becomes all the more important. My AP2 was, but fortunately the previous owner was someone mechanically inclined and a friend of mine. There's stuff I've missed (especially as far as pointing out specific things to look for and check, but it's a great start minimum).
Just remember, while a Honda, it's a used car.
If anything at all seems suspect, walk away, and if for some reason you still can't pass, make sure the shop can identify exactly what it is and what the fix will be.Why the essay? Because I've been screwed on a used car before (before my S2000[s]).
04-15-2016, 03:47 PM
#527
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thank you for the essay! 
The more good information I can get from experienced folks, the better!
A prepurchase inspection, alignment, and some fluid changes are always at the top of any new-to-me car checklist.
Thanks for your thoughts and insight, I will definitely be keeping all of this stuff in mind when I go check the car out in person.
The more good information I can get from experienced folks, the better!A prepurchase inspection, alignment, and some fluid changes are always at the top of any new-to-me car checklist.
Thanks for your thoughts and insight, I will definitely be keeping all of this stuff in mind when I go check the car out in person.
04-16-2016, 12:25 PM
#528
I was surprised how many cars had a lot of mods and asked the same as a stock car, it doesn't seem right to me. Many mods are put on by half a$$ shade tree mechanics and in general should be viewed with diminished value vs a stock vehicle. A modified vehicle can often have reliability issues not present on a stock car as well, again due to quality of parts and installation. Personally I'd buy a higher mileage really well cared for vehicle to stay in the lower price ranges with a meticulous owner and then modify it yourself as you wish, at least you know the quality of the work is based on your skill set, not someone else's. There is a lot of "someone else worn out junk" on CL and Autotrader.
04-16-2016, 06:07 PM
#529
I was surprised how many cars had a lot of mods and asked the same as a stock car, it doesn't seem right to me. Many mods are put on by half a$$ shade tree mechanics and in general should be viewed with diminished value vs a stock vehicle. A modified vehicle can often have reliability issues not present on a stock car as well, again due to quality of parts and installation. Personally I'd buy a higher mileage really well cared for vehicle to stay in the lower price ranges with a meticulous owner and then modify it yourself as you wish, at least you know the quality of the work is based on your skill set, not someone else's. There is a lot of "someone else worn out junk" on CL and Autotrader.
04-17-2016, 05:01 AM
#530
Buying a modified car could also come with better odds of a car that was cared for.
If I ever sell my AP1, it will most definitely be modified, but it'll also have had every single bit of maintenance I can think of and then some, along with parts being upgraded as they wear out.
If I ever sell my AP1, it will most definitely be modified, but it'll also have had every single bit of maintenance I can think of and then some, along with parts being upgraded as they wear out.