Official forced induction chat thread
http://youtu.be/I7dZqWxyfTo
Any idea what this noise could be. I just got my car started today and I'm getting a humming/buzzing from the turbo. Seller I got it from on here told me the turbo only had 700 miles on it...
found this video while searching as well, sounds a lot like the hum i'm getting from my 6262 as well.
http://youtu.be/i3e49yjoRMg?list=UUc...PrTKykVTaZiNbQ
going to check my DP and dump tube in the morning to make sure its not hitting the frame. Hum, from what I can tell doesnt go up as I rev the car, noise of the rev basically overtakes the humming.
Any idea what this noise could be. I just got my car started today and I'm getting a humming/buzzing from the turbo. Seller I got it from on here told me the turbo only had 700 miles on it...
found this video while searching as well, sounds a lot like the hum i'm getting from my 6262 as well.
http://youtu.be/i3e49yjoRMg?list=UUc...PrTKykVTaZiNbQ
going to check my DP and dump tube in the morning to make sure its not hitting the frame. Hum, from what I can tell doesnt go up as I rev the car, noise of the rev basically overtakes the humming.
Yeah, I tried out 4 different batteries. I'm starting to think the tuner I have gave me a faulty base map..I have to adjust some of the fuel/ignition and idle tables myself to get it to even idle right while hooked up to a jumper pack.
I've been reading around about v/c vents but can't find anything definite. Is there an agreed upon best location for 2 -10 fittings? I've seen passenger side, drivers side, and the front, just not finding which is the best for getting the least spray/oil buildup in the v/c coming out the vents.
This will be going to a vented catch can.
This will be going to a vented catch can.
Ya, that's what I've seen, the cam gears spray oil into the lines, then some guys say they get no spray at the front. I think I'll just go on the drivers side close to the stock locations, seems like it's best to make some drains in the baffle so oil can't collect by the vents as much.
Also contacted ASP I ended up going with a 3.65" pulley, that will put me 260 rpm over the blower limit. Really want to get my car back from the bodyshop so I can start getting to work. Super excited, I've never actually had a fast car! Closest would be my WRX which was somewhere in the 200-220whp range
Looking to get into FI with the SoS Stage 1 SC Kit. I have an 05 AP2 - motor is very healthy (had compression test, 240 all around; leak down test, less than 5% all around; valve adjustment, still within spec but reset to spec; and base dyno'ed at 215HP and 151FTLBS TRQ) and the transmission is fine, although it has 109k miles on it. No buzz, no rattles, no slipping, nothing. Clutch works great!
I am hearing alot on both sides about whether or not I should get a new clutch.
Half the answers are yes as the OEM will fail in time with the kit. The other half says that the extra HP and TRQ won't be an issue and my stock setup should be fine.
Thoughts? The SoS kit should put me at around 300HP.
I am leaning towards replacing the clutch with:
ACT HD Pressure Plate
OEM Honda Disc (AP1/AP2 are the same now as the AP1 part number was superceded by the AP2 part)
OEM Honda Pilot and Release Bearings
OEM Honda AP1 Flywheel
DOT4 Synthetic brake fluid for clutch bleed
Honda Super High Temp Urea Grease
Any insight from the FI gurus here?
Thank you!
I am hearing alot on both sides about whether or not I should get a new clutch.
Half the answers are yes as the OEM will fail in time with the kit. The other half says that the extra HP and TRQ won't be an issue and my stock setup should be fine.
Thoughts? The SoS kit should put me at around 300HP.
I am leaning towards replacing the clutch with:
ACT HD Pressure Plate
OEM Honda Disc (AP1/AP2 are the same now as the AP1 part number was superceded by the AP2 part)
OEM Honda Pilot and Release Bearings
OEM Honda AP1 Flywheel
DOT4 Synthetic brake fluid for clutch bleed
Honda Super High Temp Urea Grease
Any insight from the FI gurus here?
Thank you!



