I was in the same dilemma as you (though going for more power, and my car/clutch only had 45k on it). Especially with that mileage, I would just replace everything for piece of mind. If you need to replace it later (or find out it's slipping on the dyno) it's a lot more work to replace it then as the blower needs to be partly removed. When I replaced my clutch I found that I had probably 70% of my life left, but the $700 I spent was worth not having to worry about it for years down the line.

I have the identical setup and have been pretty happy with it. The pedal is obviously stiffer than stock (regardless of what people like to say on here) but I DD my car in Los Angeles (15k miles a year) and have no problem with it. You get used to the stiffness within a day and engagement is identical to stock. I also really like the AP1 flywheel, which was probably the most obvious change to me.

 

My OEM clutch has 135k on it and is holding stage 1 power fine. No issues whatsoever. Ithe the time comes to increase boost, I'll decide if I want to replace the clutch or not. I might just see how far I can push the OEM clutch

 

The ACT HD and oem disk is a great clutch setup. You really can't go wrong. Engagement really is identical to stock with only a stiffer pedal. Very suitable for a car that is driven frequently in traffic. My clutch held strong at 440whp and almost 300wtq. I just pulled the disk out last weekend after 20,000 miles and it still looks brand new.

 

Overbuilding is better than under. You'll probably be fine without it on the stage 1 kit but it wouldn't hurt you to have one. You could also get a lighter flywheel while you're at it. A stock ap1 is a nice upgrade for an ap2.

 

Thanks. I guess I will upgrade it for the possibility of going with more power down the road!

 

I have a fully loaded SOS Kit if you're interested

 

Hey guys i need a little help diagnosing a small issue I've been having on my SC s2000. The past few weeks or so, the AFR have been fluctuating a lot during cruising speeds. Sometime it will be perfect in the 14s AFR. Other times it's will run very rich. When cruising at a steady speed, my gauge reads that the motor can't keep a constant AFR. It goes up and down up and down even though my speed isn't changing. It does the same during idle as well. It will drop into the 10s or 11s and stay there for a few minutes but eventually work itself back up to 13-14s. When cruising with no throttle, the car used to put no fuel into the system. Now the injectors aren't shutting down and the car keeps pushing gas into the system. During WOT the car runs great and has no issues. Like I said, sometimes the car is running great and other times it's having this issue.
So far all I've done is replace my Wideband sensor to see if it wasn't working well but hasn't solved anything. My car was last tuned 16 months ago and has been flawless until now. I live in socal so weather changes shouldn't be a problem. I'm wondering if the fuel pump is failing or starting to have problems. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

 

Not familair with AEM but sounds like a fuel issue going on here. I would take a look at your pump then work your way to the others. The pump is not the easiest to deal with but something tells me its the problem. Could even be the wiring.

 

Hmmm. Seems like I might have to start using the S2000 as a daily driver from January, as my winter beater decided to die. ~490whp and no traction control should be interesting in the snow!

 

^Snow tires!! And don't go into boost. haha