So guys, I'm looking at getting a different manifold. I currently have a mase manifold and the 5857 turbo that came with that kit. I haven't installed but want something a bit more reliable than the mase manifold, so I'm looking at sheepey. My goal is 450-500whp. Now I can either use my 5857 and get the manifold with a t3 4 bolt flange, or I could upgrade to a 5858 or 6262 with a v-band inlet/outlet. Which is likely to be the better bang for the buck?

 

Those are good fans but you'll need a good size fuse to run it and it needs a 12volt power source. As far as fans go, stick with Spal, Derale, Maradyne and Flex-a-lite. A lot of brands say they push a high amount of CFM but have a extremely low current draw which isn't possible. These brands are reliable and don't falsify their specs. Also, look into a better radiator, preferably a dual pass.

Depending on the size, you could use your 800cfm fan for your AC fan and run a more powerful fan for the cooling fan.

 

Do you plan on upping the boost to get more power down the line? If you plan to go higher, get the 6262 or 6266. If you don't plan to go higher and want a quicker spool, I'd get the 5858. I had one and it was a great turbo on the street. Sold the kit to friend, he's making about 440.

 

Anyone know the settings to input into an AEM Series 2 Hondata 4 Bar Map Sensor? For the 06+ DBW if it matters...

 

I have tossed the thought around of eventually going meth/water or e85 in the next couple years. My other question is, is there a noticeable difference in spool between a T3 and a V-band inlet turbine housing?

 

I have tossed the thought around of eventually going meth/water or e85 in the next couple years. My other question is, is there a noticeable difference in spool between a T3 and a V-band inlet turbine housing?
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No sure but I would go vband if you can. Easier to work with, and the vband housings are much lighter in weight also; less strain on the manifold.

 

I just put Hasport diff moutns 88A and boy ....my ass vibrates WOT lol. Hopefully it settles down.

 

Those are good fans but you'll need a good size fuse to run it and it needs a 12volt power source. As far as fans go, stick with Spal, Derale, Maradyne and Flex-a-lite. A lot of brands say they push a high amount of CFM but have a extremely low current draw which isn't possible. These brands are reliable and don't falsify their specs. Also, look into a better radiator, preferably a dual pass.

Depending on the size, you could use your 800cfm fan for your AC fan and run a more powerful fan for the cooling fan.
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Awesome, thanks. Currently running a Koyo radiator and I installed the slim fan (thought I needed them for extra piping clearance) yesterday and got my turbo kit install all done. Engine temps started rising and kept going up even though the fan was working. Since then I've installed my OEM fan back in and temps are back in the normal range (180-190F).

Turns out my OEM ones still fit, just sitting really tight against the turbo piping.

side note, I'm moving out to Jacksonville, FL next month, trying to get the car finished up before I ship it over!
[/quote]I'm sorry to hear that. I can't wait to leave here lol.

 

Does this sound like a map/tune issue to you guys?

Got my turbo in and installed the aem ems v2(brand new). My tuner set me a basemap to get the car running. Now my car will only start/idle if I have the battery hooked up to a jumper pack or charging system. The second I disconnect the pack or charger, the car dies. Car won't start without being hooked up as well.

Batt volts on aem tuner showed 16.1v while hooked up to pack and 12.3 without. Voltage tanks to around 10-11V when trying to crank it over.

 

Is alternator hooked up and working?