Official forced induction chat thread
In general, the PnP connectors that are sold with ID injectors (which are NOT made by ID, just FYI) are known to not be very reliable. They'll cause an intermittent misfire and its not consistent at all. Some people develop it over time, some people it happens immediately after install, some people it only happens every now and then, some people it starts and won't stop misfiring... Sometimes unplugging them and plugging them back in fixes it... They are just really flaky. I had problems with the first two sets I tried, but my third set was solid for the entire time I owned them.
They may not be what is causing your problem, but I'd start diagnosing there.
They may not be what is causing your problem, but I'd start diagnosing there.
Thanks for the help guys!! We pulled out the clips and cleaned up the PNP. Also, the map sensor was also loose for reason. The clip don't work so we kinda ghetto it and put zipties lol.
On the side note, where can I buy the clips to wire the injectors to the harness?? Thanks in advance! And fast response guys. <3
On the side note, where can I buy the clips to wire the injectors to the harness?? Thanks in advance! And fast response guys. <3
I believe SOS can sell you the crimp-on pins/connectors... I know they offer a few different options when you buy the injectors from them.
Common issue with the MAP sensor connector being loose. Honda actually has a whole TSB thing with it. Commonly referred to as the MAP whack. Solution actually involves the use of what is basically a zip tie, lol. So you did the right thing, haha.
Common issue with the MAP sensor connector being loose. Honda actually has a whole TSB thing with it. Commonly referred to as the MAP whack. Solution actually involves the use of what is basically a zip tie, lol. So you did the right thing, haha.
So as u guys know I turbo'd my s about a month and half ago. Last week I been checking on my oil and been losing some so I'm guessing it's burning it since I don't see any leak or anything. I added oil and couple days later again. I only notice this happening last week and so it was fine for a month with no oil burnining. I'm using castrol 10-40 btw. Anything I should be worrying about or solution? It been blowing lots of white smoke after tune tune and everytime when I floor it and when I stop, it lingers in the air and u can see it pass the front.
Is the cold inlet side turbo suppose to be hella hot also? It seems like its still hot while the manifold is already cooling down. I'm thinking of using t6 rotella 5w-40
Is the cold inlet side turbo suppose to be hella hot also? It seems like its still hot while the manifold is already cooling down. I'm thinking of using t6 rotella 5w-40
Hey guys how can I relocate my fusebox to this orientation? Does someone make a bracket for this already or do I just need to fab up a bracket myself? If there is something out there already I'll just buy that. I don't really feel like going through the motions of moving it into the fender, having to extend wires and all that crap.


Just a quick question, still trying to monkey with a setting so my car drives better before I go back to the tuner......FOr people who tune, what is the general range of throttle percent, or opening you use for engagement of VTEC?
My tuner set my VTEC to be on from 3600 rpm and up depending on load and throttle and the car acts wierd at part throttle in the 3000-4500 rpm range. I am trying to tweak this a little, and I see it loooks as if it is looking for a minimum throttle percentage of 30%. That sounds really low to me. I thought it would be more like 60% throttle or higher. What seems to be common?
My tuner set my VTEC to be on from 3600 rpm and up depending on load and throttle and the car acts wierd at part throttle in the 3000-4500 rpm range. I am trying to tweak this a little, and I see it loooks as if it is looking for a minimum throttle percentage of 30%. That sounds really low to me. I thought it would be more like 60% throttle or higher. What seems to be common?







