Official forced induction chat thread
A puck vs. full face disc has nothing to do with longevity. If anything, the full face likely wouldn't have even lasted as long as it'd started slipping faster. As the OP said he's likely just making more power than it can hold. At some point making big numbers you gotta start thinking about a twin disc, or turning the power down..
Diff mounts: Innovative, Hasport, Avid.
Discuss.
I've had the Megan Racing engine/trans mounts in the past and ditched them because I didn't like the amount of vibration they translated into the cabin. I'm trying to keep my car very comfortable on the street, but I'm nervous about hurting the diff when I use the car for autox (which is 1-2 times per month). I've read that diff mounts don't translate as much vibration into the cabin as the engine/trans mounts (or any at all from some reviews). What kind do you guys have, what durometer hardness did you choose, and how are they as far as reducing wheel hop issues and cabin noise/vibration?
Discuss.
I've had the Megan Racing engine/trans mounts in the past and ditched them because I didn't like the amount of vibration they translated into the cabin. I'm trying to keep my car very comfortable on the street, but I'm nervous about hurting the diff when I use the car for autox (which is 1-2 times per month). I've read that diff mounts don't translate as much vibration into the cabin as the engine/trans mounts (or any at all from some reviews). What kind do you guys have, what durometer hardness did you choose, and how are they as far as reducing wheel hop issues and cabin noise/vibration?
Diff mounts: Innovative, Hasport, Avid.
Discuss.
I've had the Megan Racing engine/trans mounts in the past and ditched them because I didn't like the amount of vibration they translated into the cabin. I'm trying to keep my car very comfortable on the street, but I'm nervous about hurting the diff when I use the car for autox (which is 1-2 times per month). I've read that diff mounts don't translate as much vibration into the cabin as the engine/trans mounts (or any at all from some reviews). What kind do you guys have, what durometer hardness did you choose, and how are they as far as reducing wheel hop issues and cabin noise/vibration?
Discuss.
I've had the Megan Racing engine/trans mounts in the past and ditched them because I didn't like the amount of vibration they translated into the cabin. I'm trying to keep my car very comfortable on the street, but I'm nervous about hurting the diff when I use the car for autox (which is 1-2 times per month). I've read that diff mounts don't translate as much vibration into the cabin as the engine/trans mounts (or any at all from some reviews). What kind do you guys have, what durometer hardness did you choose, and how are they as far as reducing wheel hop issues and cabin noise/vibration?
Originally Posted by s2000Junky' timestamp='1394645657' post='23059220
Thats a puck clutch for you. Go with a disc next time if you want some longevity.
A puck is an affordable way to hold more power, the drawback is they don’t last, fall apart, or give little to be desired in modulation. If you are exceeding the Pressure plates ability to hold a normal disc, then running a puck with it isnt going to last you long term as a reliable solution. Im not surprised at all by this thread. If you had better experiences with a puck, chances are good you could have gotten away with a disc on the same pressure plate and had a better modulating clutch overall which also lasted longer. The point of a puck is to bite in rather then slip, to take an abrasive approach to assisting in the pressure plates shortcoming, the problem with that is, the pressure plate is what provides all the holding capacity, so if its not up to snuff, an abrasive assistance isnt but a temporary solution. This is why you don’t street puck style clutches, they are for drag racing only. 7000 miles is a lot of 1/4 mile runs.
Sure it does, a puck style clutch in my opinion is purchased because you cant afford what you should be running which is a twin disc so you are correct there.
A puck is an affordable way to hold more power, the drawback is they don’t last, fall apart, or give little to be desired in modulation. If you are exceeding the Pressure plates ability to hold a normal disc, then running a puck with it isnt going to last you long term as a reliable solution. Im not surprised at all by this thread. If you had better experiences with a puck, chances are good you could have gotten away with a disc on the same pressure plate and had a better modulating clutch overall which also lasted longer. The point of a puck is to bite in rather then slip, to take an abrasive approach to assisting in the pressure plates shortcoming, the problem with that is, the pressure plate is what provides all the holding capacity, so if its not up to snuff, an abrasive assistance isnt but a temporary solution. This is why you don’t street puck style clutches, they are for drag racing only. 7000 miles is a lot of 1/4 mile runs.
A puck is an affordable way to hold more power, the drawback is they don’t last, fall apart, or give little to be desired in modulation. If you are exceeding the Pressure plates ability to hold a normal disc, then running a puck with it isnt going to last you long term as a reliable solution. Im not surprised at all by this thread. If you had better experiences with a puck, chances are good you could have gotten away with a disc on the same pressure plate and had a better modulating clutch overall which also lasted longer. The point of a puck is to bite in rather then slip, to take an abrasive approach to assisting in the pressure plates shortcoming, the problem with that is, the pressure plate is what provides all the holding capacity, so if its not up to snuff, an abrasive assistance isnt but a temporary solution. This is why you don’t street puck style clutches, they are for drag racing only. 7000 miles is a lot of 1/4 mile runs.
Twin discs are pricey and have longevity and other issues as well. When you start making big power it's more a choice of "pick your poison" imo.
Has anyone considered an ETD (engine torque damper)??? All the ones I see attached to the passenger side strut tower and to the motor just behind the vtec oil pressure sensor. I realize that just about every turbo manifold is in the way of that. Even with my top mount, the damper would just barely hit my compressor housing on the turbo. I have a friend who has one N/A and he said the difference it made was unbelievable.
Are there any other options out there?
Are there any other options out there?
Has anyone considered an ETD (engine torque damper)??? All the ones I see attached to the passenger side strut tower and to the motor just behind the vtec oil pressure sensor. I realize that just about every turbo manifold is in the way of that. Even with my top mount, the damper would just barely hit my compressor housing on the turbo. I have a friend who has one N/A and he said the difference it made was unbelievable.
Are there any other options out there?
Are there any other options out there?
If you have aftermarket engine/trans mounts already, I would say skip it. If you're running stock engine/trans mounts, then it may be worth a try. I will say that I think my ETD added a bit more cabin vibration/noise when it was installed. So watch out for that. I can't help on the issue of the manifold being in the way of most ETD's... You could try to make a little custom mount for it using the mount it comes with though. I had to modify the mount that came with mine slightly to work with my supercharger cause the SC mounts to the VTEC solenoid location too.
Well the ETD didn't change response or handling for him, it made shifting a lot smoother for him. Now that I have a dump tube coming out of my hood I can visibly see how much my engine moves and shakes while coming off the throttle while in boost. I just thought that it would help me out a bit with engine movement rather than vibration, etc.









