S2000 Forced Induction S2000 Turbocharging and S2000 supercharging, for that extra kick.

Official forced induction chat thread

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Old Apr 17, 2014 | 05:39 AM
  #621  
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Originally Posted by RAIN H8R
I simply do not understand why anyone feels it is necessary to remove the hose. Is it a "form" change? Does it look better or something? Because it is certainly not a function upgrade. I stated my uneducated, educated opinion, Im moving on.
I kept mine, but I think the logic for removing it is it's unnecessary, and that it heats up the intake manifold. If you block the port, there won't be coolant flowing through that part of the intake manifold conducting heat into it. In older honda motors (b series) it was very common for people to block off the coolant port(s) coming out of the head. The intake manifold stayed very cool as a result of it. I've opted to keep my hose for the time being to aid bleeding the coolant and allow more coolant circulation.
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Old Apr 17, 2014 | 05:57 AM
  #622  
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What radiator fans are you guys using? I'm gonna get a Koyo rad buy can't decide what fans to get. I need smaller ones to help free up some space between the charge and stock fans/radiator and help cool things. Currently looking at the spal 14 used in the ptuning kit and mishimoto fan kit.
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Old Apr 17, 2014 | 05:58 AM
  #623  
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Many differences between a other honda engines and the S2000 engines. The F20/F22C needs it for proper circulation and bleeding.

If you are worried about reduced HP from a partially warmer manifold due to a small coolant hose flowing next to a runner, you have other issues to work with. What about the large coolant hose molded into the intake manifold under cylinder 4? Does that keep people from sleeping at night as well?
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Old Apr 17, 2014 | 04:59 PM
  #624  
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Originally Posted by RAIN H8R
I simply do not understand why anyone feels it is necessary to remove the hose. Is it a "form" change? Does it look better or something? Because it is certainly not a function upgrade.

Like I said before, all personal preference. For me it is getting rid of clutter. I don't need the hoses, so I took them out.



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Old Apr 17, 2014 | 08:15 PM
  #625  
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there are only two water lines on my whole motor. one going to the radiator and one coming back from the radiator
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Old Apr 18, 2014 | 03:00 AM
  #626  
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Is anyone in here a firm believer that stiffer motor mounts may help manifold from cracking? It's a strong debate and how I see it is that if the motor is stiff, it will help stop the manifold/turbo from flopping around and will push the vibrations in the cabin. To me, if the motor is stiff, it won't move much which in turn will keep the manifold from shaking. What to do, what to do.
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Old Apr 18, 2014 | 04:55 AM
  #627  
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If your manifold is cracking it's shitty welds. My fbm is rock solid. Car has noticeable vibration around 2500rpm. I have had dump tubes Crack 4 to 5 times. Now that the tubes are braced zero issues.
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Old Apr 18, 2014 | 08:56 AM
  #628  
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If you guys are buying manifolds, make sure (if they are stainless) that they are being back purged. No shielding on the inside makes for an incomplete weld that can be prone to cracks. Most companies will backpurge, but I would ask beforehand.

I did this a while ago....you can clearly see where it was shielded, and where it wasn't.

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Old Apr 18, 2014 | 09:11 AM
  #629  
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thats the greatness of welding pipe...to get the pretty colors that look flashy to a customer, you dont get the penetration needed for those massive thick manifolds unless you backpurge. backpurge = more argon = less profit or increased price.
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Old Apr 18, 2014 | 09:13 AM
  #630  
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Still stuck on injector size :/ need more advice on the id1300s so far thinking AEM fpr walbro 416 e85 and id1300 on flex fuel setup s200sx fmw shooting for 600whp. I'm worried id2000 wont idle drive the best. But can't find a solid answer if the 1300s will flow enough ......
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